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Jakarta Post

Kedai Bang Ali: Channeling the beloved Jakarta governor through coffee

Ali Sadikin is the gold standard for anyone who aspires to become the governor of Jakarta.

Dylan Amirio (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Wed, August 2, 2017

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Kedai Bang Ali: Channeling the beloved Jakarta governor through coffee Front gate: The Kedai Bang Ali sign greets customers at the front gate of the family home, where the coffee shop is located in Ali Sadikin's garage. (Kedai Bang Ali/Sindy Anindja)

F

ondly called Bang Ali (Big Brother Ali), he is a legendary figure whose name invites praise and acclaim in the hearts and minds of Jakartans, mainly those of an older generation.

Ali Sadikin’s image might have faded amongst Jakarta’s younger citizens, but his achievements are still felt by all generations today.

As governor, Ali managed to develop much of Jakarta’s public infrastructure, authorized the building of public spaces such as theme parks, as well as dedicated himself to Jakarta’s art scene by supporting the Jakarta Arts Council and the Pekan Raya Jakarta entertainment venue in Kemayoran.

Determined to preserve and radiate the man’s legacy, Ali’s youngest son and a few friends are on a mission to impart his memory through a contemporary means of connecting with the younger generation.

Ali’s son Yasser Umarsyah, along with childhood friends Sindy Anindja, Michael Junius, Agasa Pasaman and Sahata Resvino, recently opened the Kedai Bang Ali (KBA) coffee shop inside the garage of the late Jakarta governor’s home in Jati Murni, South Jakarta. They have a vision to reconnect the public with Bang Ali’s legacy through a culture that every generation understands: coffee.

Reconnecting: Four customers of the younger generation chat at the Kedai Bang Ali coffee shop. The coffee shop envisions reconnecting Jakarta's citizens with the former governor's vision and character through what and how it serves its guests.
Reconnecting: Four customers of the younger generation chat at the Kedai Bang Ali coffee shop. The coffee shop envisions reconnecting Jakarta's citizens with the former governor's vision and character through what and how it serves its guests. (Kedai Bang Ali/Sindy Anindja)

Sindy, the KBA’s marketing manager, said the way a coffee shop operates resonated with how Ali managed his governorship. At public events, the coffee shop tries to emulate the welcoming, hands-on way that Ali interacted with the city’s citizens.

Read also: Lunch at oldest coffee roaster in Java

The KBA staff carefully curate the coffee, serving mainly Arabica brews and experimental beverages using Indonesian coffee varieties. The staff explains this was intentional, because coffee consumers in the past were used to the more complex flavor of Arabica coffee than that of the Robusta more common today.

Their goal is to bolster a heightened everyday awareness of coffee, as Indonesians are becoming more aware of how a good cup of coffee is supposed to taste and smell.

The concept is the same for the food they serve.

KBA tries to offer an authentic answer to Jakarta’s coffee culture by sticking to simple foods that embody the city’s streets, at accessible and affordable prices. This does not mean that their menu necessarily focuses exclusively on the indigenous Betawi culture, because the city’s identity has extended beyond Betawi culture to include almost everyone.

Future plans include displaying more Ali-related prints and other memorabilia will on the cafe’s walls, with the help of his family and former secretary. KBA’s social media accounts also plan to disseminate posts related to how people of ages view Ali, or share fond memories of him.

Read also: Regarding the beans: Third-wave coffee hits home

Occasionally, the KBA will also hold events that follow Ali’s interests and vision. For example, a recent hydroponic gardening workshop held at the coffee shop aimed to symbolize Ali’s interests and efforts in greening Jakarta. Other plans include holding art-related events to reflect Ali’s passion for promoting local art and artists.

A barista prepares coffee at the Kedai Bang Ali coffee shop
A barista prepares coffee at the Kedai Bang Ali coffee shop (Kedai Bang Ali/Sindy Anindja)

Yasser said he was humbled by the positive responses expressed by some of KBA’s customers when they entered the coffee shop for the first time. He said that several customers of “the older generation” had come specifically to bask in Ali’s images and books.

“The recent gubernatorial election was kind of a blessing for us, because it put Ali’s name back in the spotlight as a model of a great governor. We got some exposure from that, and it really helped stoke appreciation for his legacy,” Yasser said.

Yasser describes his father as a tough, stern man who was critical, but underlines that his toughness was due to his love for the city, for his vision to make it a better place for all.

Behind the governor’s mantle, he was remembered as a warm, loving father who doted on his children. Yasser’s strongest memories of his father are mainly from Ali’s retirement years, when he spent most of his time with his family.

“I received warmth and love from him as a child. That’s why we decided to open the [coffee shop] in his garage. We wanted to convey that sense of belonging to everyone, to make people of all ages feel at home and comfortable under his gaze,” he said.

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