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Remembering and reinventing the spirit of freedom: Dior's autumn-winter collection
The arrival of the Dior autumn-winter collection in Jakarta brings ideas of freedom and a spirit of revival.
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The arrival of the Dior autumn-winter collection in Jakarta brings ideas of freedom and a spirit of revival. (JP/Muthi Kautsar)
D
ior’s Autumn-Winter 2018-2019 ready-to-wear collection finally hit stores in Jakarta. For this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Dior, has taken guidance from symbols and attitudes that represent a search for authenticity.
In fact, 2018 marks 50 years since the cultural and social revolution began in 1968. This is the moment from which the House of Dior draws inspiration for its new collection.
From woolen embroidery on organza dresses to reworked and printed jeans, the collection conveys the revival of an era when new ideas emerged, creativity is for creativity’s sake and the youth are the center of attention.
The revivalist spirit is also seen in the bags, where items from the House’s archives such as the Saddle and Lady Dior become a blank canvas for threads, beads, embroidery, fabric patchworks and shoulder straps adorned with medallions and fringe. All these rich ornamentations act as ambassadors of different cultures, travel experiences that are taken as a means of discovering others and oneself.
Ready-to-wear items share the same spirit of revival, embodied for instance in kilts reproduced in material as unexpected as point d’esprit (fine bobbinet with scattered woven dots).
Meanwhile, modern; contemporary and utility versions of the kilt that are also familiar as workwear, relevant to the collection's theme, make the kilt an important part of the collection.
Aside from the sheer point d’esprit, this season’s kilt also comes in wool, pleated with hands in Paris. Dior’s runway looks suggest the kilts will be paired with T-shirts, masculine jackets, embroidered-body hugging knitwear and biker-inspired thigh boots.
Read also: Fashion's new black prince reigns over Paris shows
Speaking of the runway, women’s DiorColorQuake sunglasses made colorful statements in green, blue, yellow, pink, silver, beige and gold on the stage. They come in oversized square, rectangular and aviator shapes.
The name of the sunglasses collection, as well as the message it may imply, refer to the term youthquake that was first coined by Diana Vreeland of Vogue circa 1963-1971.
DiorColorQuake, youthquake, all are "earthquakes" that let you see the world in different colors and may lead to changes of shapes, attitudes and personalities as times change.
