If you go ...

The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 08/22/2004 2:12 PM  |  Life

Getting there

Although the Gili islands are wonderful themselves, many travelers have, unfortunately, had bad experiences in getting there. Going by ferry from Bali (which leaves from the sleepy town of Padangbai) is not recommended, unless you have a perverse penchant for pain and suffering.

The rust-bucket ferry takes about four and a half hours to reach Lombok's Lembar Harbor, and with the seas between the two islands often choppy, you'd better have your sick-bag close at hand if you are susceptible to seasickness. And knowing that one of the ferries plying this route sank in September last year doesn't exactly put one at ease.

From Lembar, it is still about an hour and a half drive to Bangsal, the small harbor from where you can take a small motorized boat to the Gili islands.

Far better is to fly directly to Lombok's Mataram Selaparang Airport, and then take a taxi to Bangsal. From where you are dropped off at Bangsal, you will either have to walk the last 200 meters or take a ride on a cidomo to reach the harbor.

Although various lowlifes will approach you and try to persuade you that the only way to reach the Gili islands is to charter a boat at great expense, tickets for the public boats to the islands can actually be bought at the official ticket office which is right by the sea.

It's also best to wear shorts and sandals/slippers, because your feet are likely to get wet as you climb on to the small boat.

And make sure you retain your wits about you before boarding: many tourists have been caught off guard by undesirable characters who have forcibly taken their luggage onto the boat and then demanded a ridiculously large sum of money. But despite these problems, the journey to the Gili islands is definitely worth it: once there you won't want to go back!

Don't forget

As there are no banks on the Gili islands, make sure you take enough cash for your intended period of stay. Although there are a few moneychangers, they are unreliable and the rates very poor. But if you get into any difficulties, it is good to know that there are now some ATM machines at nearby Senggigi on the Lombok mainland.

-- Martin Jenkins

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