If you go ...

The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 12/12/2004 7:51 AM  |  Life

Getting there: The most convenient option is by air, which is limited to Lao Airlines (Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh, Hanoi and Phnom Penh), Thai Airways (Bangkok), and Vietnam Airlines (Hanoi). The adventurous can try a night sleeper train traveling from, or drive across, the Mekong Bridge entering via the Friendship Bridge on the outskirts of Vientiane.

Accommodation: Lots of clean guest house style lodgings which are low priced (under US$20) and provide the basic luxuries of modern living -- hot shower, scrambled eggs breakfasts, refrigerator, etc. There is really little point in staying in the half dozen or so luxury hotels in Vientiane. The charm of the country is not its luxury, but its relaxing atmosphere.

What to do: Sit down across the Mekong and ponder your life. A bit of sightseeing to obligatory sights contained in most travel books is nice, especially in Luang Prabang. Laos is about relaxing, but not the stripdown-beach bumming sort of relaxation. Its about refocusing one's chi into balance, armed with a beer, coffee, a pen and journal to jot your contemplation.

What to buy: Silk. Skirts (known locally as sinh) range from $5 to $50. The Talat Sao (Morning Market) is the best place to go to look for souvenirs which would also include various wood carvings.

Getting around: It's always good to have a quick Laotian language reference guide. Few people comprehend English or French, and even then speak very slowly. A small pocket calculator is also convenient when getting around town and avoids wasting time explaining a simple price amount, especially when souvenir hunting at the local market.

Since going in and out of temples will be a daily routine when visiting Laos, it is advisable to respect local customs. Women should wear a decent length skirt and have their shoulders covered. Furthermore, take off one's shoes when entering a temple. When sitting down, never point your toes forward. If possible, fold your legs below you with your feet facing backward.

More information about visiting Laos can be obtained at www.visit-laos.com; www.visit-mekong.com/laos; and www.laos-travel.com

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