Magic mountain

At 1,650 meters, Mount Penanggungan is not a scenically striking sight when compared to its prominent neighbors Arjuna and Welirang. Compensation is in its shape and cultural significance.

Below the round summit are four minor peaks. The mountain's topography convinced the Javanese that their ancient volcano was the duplicate of the Indian holy mountain, Mt. Mahameru.

Legend says this mountain had been magically transported from the subcontinent to the archipelago to become the mother mountain of Hindu and Buddhist religions.

There are more than 100 known temples and other sites on Penanggungan's slopes that span more than 500 years, starting in the late 10th Century. Other remnants of past civilizations can be found in Trowulan, around Malang and in Pacet.

These include the recently discovered Buddha Akshobya, which may be 700 years old. Unfortunately, the well-weathered stone has now been institutionalized, shut into a tasteless railed pavilion (in case it escapes) flanked by rusting government signs.

That hasn't been the fate of another artifact, a ""mystery monument"".

Its flat base faces uphill, indicating it probably tumbled from a site above, maybe during an earthquake. It lies where it fell among the trees. The head is missing, but the carvings indicate an arm and a sash. Its history is open to speculation and the other body parts await discovery.

The locals are happy to point out these marvels, which are not well sign-posted.

Visitors interested in history and culture should find such raw remnants of lost civilizations a highlight of their trip. Pacet is do-it-yourself archaeology. -- Duncan Graham