Simon Marcus Gower, Contributor, Medan
There are certain comments and observations regarding North Sumatra's capital city that have practically become cliched in describing the city. ""Sprawling"", ""dusty"" and ""dirty"" with a center that suffers either ""intolerable: or ""horrendous traffic"" are all repeated expressions that leave this quite remarkable city in the glare of a less than favorable light.
But we should not be blinded by this, for in truth Medan has a number of very interesting features that should not be neglected, (however, sadly, as will be seen, neglect does seem to be quite a common theme for Medan). The city has history and interest that make it both unique and intriguing to the traveler.
Medan's Polonia Airport is a small but very well located (only a short distance from the city center) airport that somehow has more of the feel of a train station than an airport, but this only adds to its appeal. The short ride to downtown Medan means that upon arrival, one very quickly encounters the city's congestion.
Significant contributors to Medan roadway blues are the many, many motorcycle becak (pedicabs) that swarm around the city. Aged motorcycles have sidecars precariously attached to them, and this form of transportation can be rented (through negotiation) for as little as Rp. 5,000.
Hair-raising rides can be taken that quickly get one around the city -- one-way streets that consistently do not apply to the riders of these motorcycles. But the dustiness of the city's roads mean that one is well advised to take along glasses and a scarf or mask for eyes, nose and mouth, or the ride becomes quite uncomfortable.
But a ride on one of these motorcycle becak is not really necessary to get to and from two of the city's most significant buildings, as they are centrally located and near to one another. Both of these buildings, however, are showing their age, and apparent neglect is allowing them to crumble away.
Maimoon Palace, or Istana Maimun, was built as a residence for the Sultan of Deli (Deli being a major North Sumatran kingdom along with Aceh). The building was erected in 1888 and the design has been variously attributed to a Dutchman, an Italian and indeed the Sultan who held power at that time. Perhaps the truth of who designed the building lies in a combination of the above, because it is a quite unusual mixture of styles that leaves something of a unique impression.
Variously showing Italian, Dutch, Arabic and Asian influences, Maimoon Palace is a complex of buildings that is still significantly occupied by local people. This occupation, though, does little for the esthetic appeal of the complex, as tattered and broken furniture, such as sofas, is left out in the open and washing is draped over balconies that cumulatively do little to suggest palatial grandeur.
As a complex of buildings, then, relatively little is open for general public access. Indeed, all that is accessible is two or three spaces in the main, central area of the building. Mounting a flight of solid stairs at the front of the palace a sense of royal grandeur may be gained -- but this is somewhat diluted by hawkers trying to sell T-shirts or other rather tatty tourist trinkets.
Having reached the top of these stairs, one enters what appears to be a kind of throne room -- a large throne sits to the right of the stairs. This space is rather dark and dusty with a large chandelier hanging from a highly decorated ceiling. European motifs mingle with Arabic arches in this space, but little or nothing can be learned about it while there. A portrait of a Sultan hangs, poorly lit; and old photographs adorn one corner of the room but no labeling leaves them anonymous.
Through a delicately decorated archway other photographs are on offer -- these being touristy chances to dress up in local costume and be photographed sitting in the palace.
This, however, does little to add to any sense of majesty or the mystic.
The interior of the palace is, then, rather fine but under-presented and -appreciated, and the same may be said of its exterior. A large open space presents itself as a grand opportunity to display pleasant and attractive greenery in the middle of the city's bustle, but instead of this a muddy, unkempt field does little to impress or attract.
Leaving this field and crossing a busy thoroughfare, one can soon reach the Grand Mosque, or Mesjid Raya, of Medan. ""Grand"" is indeed an appropriate title for this outstanding building but, as with the palace, the sense of grandeur is diluted by neglect.
The Grand Mosque can shine in the day with its powerful black domes and white walls adorned with turquoise tiles; unfortunately, neglect undermines the overall impression. Small trees and shrubs grow from the domes and elsewhere, too, fine architectural features are being allowed to decay.
Designed by a Dutch architect and built by Sultan Makmun Al-Rasyid in 1906, this mosque must surely be preserved and protected. With Italian marble, a Dutch chandelier and Chinese stained glass, the mosque should be a conserved precious jewel of Medan. Evidence suggests otherwise -- with stained glass broken away and disrepair showing.
In the grounds of the mosque sit the tombs of the sultans of Maimoon Palace, but these too rest in muddy and unkempt land.
Fine ""local"" attributes of the city lie in neglect and the same may be said of ""colonial"" attributes of the city. Offices of the old colonial companies that would have overseen the massive export of goods -- such as tea, coffee, rubber and tobacco -- through Medan's port now seem sidelined and mostly underused and undervalued.
Smaller places of note in the city, such as the mansion of a Chinese businessman named Tjong A Fie and the Tip Top Restaurant that dates from the colonial era -- and still looks much as it must have back then -- are tucked away among the hustle and bustle of the city.
It is clear that Medan is moving on, with new, shiny malls such as Sun Plaza becoming focal points, but it is a shame that the city's fine history and historical highlights are being left behind.
""Medan"" may be translated as ""battlefield"" or ""arena""; it seems sad that the arena of Medan's center is moving in a different direction. Much of the city is still predicated and predetermined by historical design and history, but this is crumbling and so disappearing.
The battlefield of time is leaving casualties -- the history and thus, the culture of a fine city -- and these are surely a sad loss.
Travel Tips
Getting there
Medan is a major entry point into Sumatra and as such is well served by domestic flight. Garuda Indonesia, Merpati Nusantara, Sempati Air, Bouraq and Mandala fly daily from Jakarta. Polonia airport receives both domestic and international flights, and is situated conveniently close to the city center -- a mere 10- to 15-minute drive. The city's port, Belawan, is situated some 25 kilometers north of the city and is served by Pelni vessels, ferries and high-speed catamarans.
Getting around
Perhaps the quickest way to get around the city is by using motorcycle becak -- but they are a dusty and dirty ride and not for the faint-hearted, as riders like to go at high speeds and make tight maneuvers. City taxis are variable in quality and will nearly always require the traveler to have good negotiation skills. It is easier to allow your hotel to arrange taxi services/rental cars. This can include excursions to the hillside resort of Brastagi and even on to Lake Toba -- but be warned; Toba is a 3- to 4-hour drive away.
Hotels
Medan has a range of hotels but, being such a busy and dusty city, the traveler may prefer one of the better hotels in town to relax and refresh in.
These would include: Novotel Soechi Medan, Jl. Cirebon 76-A, Medan, Sumatra 20152 Inna Dharma Deli, Jl. Balai Kota No. 2, Medan, Sumatra 20111 Best Western Asean International Hotel, Jl. Adam Malik No. 5, Sumatra 20114 Grand Angkasa Hotel, Jl. Sutomo No.1, Medan, Sumatra 20235
-- Simon Marcus Gower
