Fashion students explore creativity courageously

The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 07/02/2006 4:33 PM  |  Life

T. Sima Gunawan, Contributor, Jakarta

What do prostitutes, geisha, the emperor of China, and Einstein have in common?

They are among the characters that inspire students of Esmod Jakarta fashion school in creating their designs. In fact, anything can become their inspiration: be it tribal life in the hinterlands or the buzz of the big city, a cheerful summer day or the gloom of a broken-hearted girl. The students explore every possibility in expressing their ideas. There is no room for timidity here.

For the first time since Esmod Jakarta was established 10 years ago, the school gave graduating students a chance to show their creations last weekend in stands erected at its campus in Cipete, South Jakarta. It was a chance for students to learn not only how to make outfits, but also how to present them nicely at the stands, which measured 2 x 3 square meters.

The students took their final projects seriously, spending a lot of time, energy and money. Some shelled out more than Rp 10 million (US$1,100) for materials, accessories, catalogs, posters and of course decorations for their stands.

The color pink dominated the display erected by Dindadjani and Febrina, who are inspired by Victorian-era prostitutes. The two students, who major in fashion design and pattern making respectively, are collaborating to produce a women's wear series with intriguing designs inspired by these women of the 18th century. They transformed the stand into a kind of bedroom, complete with a small bed and a table, where they exhibited designs ranging from leggings and skirts to blouses and dresses made of soft materials, along with accessories. The clothes are sexy, romantic, and intriguing, under a brand called Mistress, which can also be read ""Stress"" to reflect the fact that the life of prostitutes is stressful.

Even though the name of the brand might have a negative connotation, and the inspiration is somewhat controversial, Dindadjani is quite confident in her designs, which carry a price tag of between Rp139,900 (US$15) and Rp 1,019,900 ($113).

""It's a very interesting look at the concept of the Victorian era,"" said Patrice Desilles, the program coordinator. ""The designs of the products, like the balloon of the sleeve and the skirt, the line under the breast, and the lace; it's good work, based on the beauty and the sadness of prostitutes and mistresses.""

Another student, Jessica Darmawan, chose a theme of reincarnation. The designs are inspired by ideas surrounding life and death. Therefore gray is the dominant color for her creations, which have a gloomy tone. She also uses a touch of pink in some of the works, as she is also inspired by love, which can lead to death if one is broken-hearted.

Creativity is the key to fashion design. To encourage the students to explore their creativity, they are first asked to find a picture which draws their attention and can become their inspiration. They then choose the theme, the elements and the color range based on the picture.

In Jessica's case, she chose a picture of a depressed girl.

""People who are in trouble might be suicidal. But God can save them. With the help of God, they can overcome their problems. It's like they are reborn and as a new person, they become a stronger, better person,"" said the 19-year-old student, explaining how she arrived at the theme of reincarnation.

The element of depression, despair and sadness is implied in the color range of black, gray and white. The girl's chaotic emotions are translated through unfinished fabric with sewing variations that give a unique, slightly disordered look.

""As a way out, the girl prays, seeking God,"" Jessica continued. That's why she built a small altar with some candles and a cross.

""I put some diamonds inside the candles, so when they melt, the diamonds come out. This symbolizes the better new life after death.""

In line with this concept -- ""in the darkness, there is light"" -- she put crystalline Swarovski stones in some of her designs, which she describes as luxurious, chic and feminine.

For her lingerie, the theme is ""finding true love"". It's based on the idea that there is a long process before one finds true love and decides to get married, usually involving jealousy, suspicion, heartbreak, sadness and happiness. Jessica explored all of these emotions during the creative process before implementing them in the designs. She chose gray as the basic color for the outfits, but she also combined it with pink, the color of love. She included printed messages on the clothes, such as the words ""Will you marry me?"" or a picture of a man proposing to his girlfriend.

Her works, along with those of her classmates, will be brought to stage by professional models on Thursday, July 6, in a Fashion Festival that will also mark the students' graduation.

This year Esmod will graduate 32 students in its three-year program and another 27 students in its one-year program. About 200 outfits created by the students will be presented during the Fashion Festival at Balai Kartini in South Jakarta. About 1,200 people are expected to attend. The show will have a theme of rejuvenation, which is inspired by the World Cup, a moment when colors, cultures and tribes meet in harmony.

The annual Fashion Festival is the climax of the students' work during their study at Esmod. It is also a battlefield where they prove their creativity before the audience, which includes not only their parents and family members but also fashion designers and members of the garment and textile industries.

Esmod currently has some 200 students and 363 alumni. About 40 percent of Esmod graduates work in the garment industries. Fifteen percent run their own businesses, four percent work for designers, more than six percent continue their fashion studies abroad and the rest open home tailoring businesses, work in the media or become fashion instructors.

The school first opened in Paris in 1841 and now operates in Brazil, China, Germany, Japan, South Korea, Lebanon, Norway, Syria, Tunisia and Indonesia.

Esmod Jakarta graduating students will showcase the theme of rejuvenation at Fashion Festival 2006, Thursday, July 6 at 4 p.m. at The Rafflesia Ball Room, Balai Kartini, Jl. Jendral Gatot Subroto Kav. 37, South Jakarta. For information and reservations call 765 9181-82.

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