Kuala Lumpur: Rising to the heights of modernity

The Jakarta Post , Jakarta | Sun, 10/15/2006 10:23 AM | Life

Simon Marcus Gower, Contributor, Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur has become a modern-day metropolis, but glimpses of the past remain. Even with its excellent infrastructure and a center of soaring skyscrapers, there still remain -- tucked away among all the steel and glass that shine in the brilliant tropical sun -- some outstanding and quite beautiful representatives of by-gone days.

Alternative routes from the international airport into the modern city center of Kuala Lumpur offer contrasting aspects of the city.

By road, there is really no hint of arriving at Malaysia's modern capital. Though the toll road is very well constructed and the limited traffic flows easily, the road carves through deeply forested hills that are in stark contrast to urban development.

The distance from the airport to the city center is considerable, about 70 kilometers, and this makes the high-speed railway a perhaps surprisingly more varied ride into town. The pristine and high-tech train speeds the traveler through new industrial and suburban settlements that give much more of a clue that a major city is being approached.

Whether approaching by rail or road, glimmers of the high-rise capital can be seen gradually. Skyscrapers sparkle in the sun, and blue skies create a rather exotic and beautiful backdrop to the 21st century capital that lies ahead.

Traveling through the roadways of the capital, an early sign of significant modern development is the elevated monorail system.

Often squeezing precariously between buildings and above the roads, the monorail line weaves its way through much of the city, its vibrantly painted carriages gliding quietly and even elegantly above the busier roads below.

But Kuala Lumpur is a relatively small capital city with a population approaching 1.5 million, so it does not seem to suffer the chronic traffic congestion that hits so many other metropolises. Though the roads may not look congested, the designed landscape of the city is a cacophony of intensity and activity, much of it skywards and indeed, sky high.

Touching the sky

A forest of skyscrapers proliferates in the city center, reminiscent of the natural forests that lie around Kuala Lumpur. But even though the downtown area is a congestion of high-rise modernity, there are significant buildings -- both low- and high-rise that stand out among all this intensity.

Of course, the magnificent Petronas Twin Towers cannot be escaped. They are a symbol of Malaysia and they are indeed a stunning symbol.

The quality and detailing of the architecture is a wonder to behold, and although the towers stand ""the tallest in the world"", the subtlety of their design makes them attractive and appealing rather than domineering and frightening as some tall skyscrapers can seem.

Additional, unique aspects of the towers make them outstanding for more than just their great height. The gently tapering profiles that culminate in slender pinnacles give the towers something of a candle-like appearance and, of course, the connecting bridge some 40 floors up provides stunning views across the city and beyond.

It is truly remarkable to walk across the sky bridge and look down upon skyscrapers below that look like little more than children's building blocks. Vehicles and pedestrians are mere dots, and looking down and across the city from this great height can be truly awe-inspiring.

Views stretch out as far as surrounding hills, but closer is another of the ""high points"" of the city -- the Menara Kuala Lumpur, or K.L. Tower.

The Menara Kuala Lumpur is referred to as a ""telecommunications tower"" and like the Petronas Towers, it rises to a great height of 421 meters (Petronas is 452 meters tall). But it is only at the top of the Menara Kuala Lumpur that activities take place. For a small fee, visitors can take a quick elevator ride to the viewing gallery and the revolving restaurant.

From the heights, visitors can take in spectacular 360-degree views, and it is perhaps here that some of the most stunning views of Petronas may be gained, their brilliance and almost regal poise accentuated as they glisten under the hot sun.

But it is also possible, from this breathtaking vantage point, to see Kuala Lumpur's older, and in many ways equally interesting and important buildings, in between the skyscrapers' heights.

Markers of history

The green field of Dataran Merdeka, or Independence Square -- which hosts Malaysia's national events and ceremonies -- can be seen far below, along with one of the country's most famous landmarks.

When it was originally built in the 1890s, the Sultan Abdul Samad building must have been one of the city's tallest structures, with its decorated clock tower. The ornate Moorish style of the building, along with its pinkish brick facade, make this a highly unique sight.

The building once housed the colonial government offices, but is now home to the nation's Supreme and High courts. Lawyers carrying their briefs may be seen hurrying to and from the building, silhouetted against its numerous archways and copper-plated dome towers that reminds one of Arabic and thus, Islamic, influences.

Located not far from the Dataran Merdeka area stands a more direct reminder of Malaysia's Islamic heritage.

Masjid Jame, or Jame Mosque, is quite simply a beautifully designed and constructed mosque. Sadly, in some respects, it is now ""lost in the crowd"" of the city.

With office blocks, fast food restaurants, roads and the elevated monorail all crowding around it, the mosque almost seems to be suffocated.

When it was built in 1909 at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers -- which today flow barely noticeably through the city -- the mosque must have been much less overshadowed and much more of a focal point.

But still, the minarets, domes, archways and red bricks contrasted with white stucco make this building eye-catching and delicately beautiful. It is often referred to as a ""confection"" and a ""pretty building"", and this is understandable when contrasted with the heavy concrete engineering nearby.

Though Kuala Lumpur has unquestionably become a modern 21st century capital, it is equally no question that the mix of old and new gives the city true character.

While the Malaysian capital looks forward and welcomes international travelers with high-class hotels and international-standard shopping, it also retains its national character and cultural heritage simultaneously. Kuala Lumpur's infrastructure and buildings represent all the complexities and diverse characteristics of an appealing, busy and prosperous city and nation.

Travel Tips

* Getting there

Kuala Lumpur's Sepang international airport is relatively new and well facilitated, serving more than 50 international airlines. Major airlines such as Malaysia Airlines fly the Jakarta-KL route, as well as budget carriers such as Air Asia. At little more than 1.5 hours, flying from Jakarta is convenient and easy.

* Getting around

Kuala Lumpur's KTM Komuter electric train travels to the suburbs and the international airport. In the city, the LRT (Light Rail Transit) is complemented by the monorail, and both allow for easy movement. Taxis do not always use meters, so some negotiation may be necessary, although prepaid taxis can be taken from the airport. Kuala Lumpur is not a hugely sprawling city; as such, walking is a possibility, but be wary of the heat.

* Accommodation

Five-star hotels and premier shopping malls are located in and around the Golden Triangle and the Bukit Bintang area, which includes the Petronas Towers. Less expensive accommodation is dotted around the city -- a good and central choice is Chinatown, which allows easy access to the city and to the bustling market areas, including the Jl. Petaling night market.

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