Krabbe K. Piting, Contributor, Zanzibar
Zanzibar is truly a destination in itself: Not the currently defunct South Jakarta night spot, of course, but the archipelago off Tanzania, Africa.
It has postcard-perfect beaches, a rich history and a part of the capital's old quarter is a World Heritage Site. It is as exotic as it sounds.
Consisting of two major islands with a scattering of off-shore islets, Zanzibar was once the old capital of the Arab empire in East Africa with its own sultan, harem, and a flourishing trade in spices and slaves.
In fact, the islands' main industry is still spices. According to guidebooks, one of the must-do activities in Zanzibar is the Spice Tour, which involves a trip out of town to agricultural villages where spices are grown in private gardens and government plantations.
But unless you're really, really into horticulture, it's safe to say Indonesians in general can skip this tour. Because US$10 is a wee bit much to go on a tour where the first few sentences by the tour guide are: ""This is the jackfruit tree. The seeds came from Jakarta, Indonesia.""
(The word ""Indonesia"" constantly crops up during the tour, as apparently, depending on the spice, we alternate between first and second with Zanzibar as largest spice exporters in the world.)
Instead, soak in the heady atmosphere of Stone Town, the capital city's old quarter, before you proceed to the beaches.
Stroll through the narrow streets and winding alleys, pass old Arab houses with their magnificent brass-studded doors and ornate latticed balconies and small, interesting shops.
Among the curio shops selling local handicrafts, you'll find gems such as an antique store with an assortment of items, from vintage shop signs to furniture and porcelain, enough to make any collector's mouth water.
It's like the world's most interesting flea market packed in a very small space. Be sure to part with some serious money here.
For dinner, skip the fancy restaurants and head to the seafood market in Forodhani Gardens near the seafront, where stallholders set up their wares of, yep, fresh seafood, not unlike in Muara Karang.
Eating seafood with your hands to light from the vendors' kerosene lamps on a stretch of park is very satisfying, indeed (although the lobster fishily tasted like, um, fish).
If for some reason you need to find a particular fellow tourist, this is also the place to spot them, since the market is where they almost certainly flock for their cheap dinners.
Dark historical legacy
All this loveliness and fun belies a dark side of the history of Zanzibar, where it was once the embarking point for slaves heading for other parts of the world.
Amassed from different parts of Africa, these slaves (including children) were kept in underground slave chambers, a historic site open to tourists.
Separated by gender, they were chained and forced to crouch on the already cramped chambers less than two feet high which flooded every time the tide was high.
There was no toilet, no light. They were also caned, sometimes to death.
This inhumane condition was to determine their strength. If they could survive the atrocities, it meant they were strong enough for their prospective buyers.
A small monument consisting of several statues of slaves wearing the original chains left behind after the slave trade was banished occupies a part of the gardens.
Not long after the slave trade was abolished by the Victorian British Empire, the Anglican Cathedral was erected on what was once the old slave market.
While it is small compared with other cathedrals in the world, it does have the distinction of having a crucifix made from the tree under which the explorer and chief opponent of the slave trade David Livingstone's heart was buried.
Stone Town is also the starting point to the other attractions the islands offer.
Diving in Zanzibar is purportedly to be among the best in the world, but if you're like me and are satisfied with lounging lazily on a beautiful white sandy beach with startling turquoise waters, head to either Nungwi on the northern tip of the island or one of the beaches on the east coast.
The drive there from Stone Town is long, but on the way you can occasionally spot the rare Red Colobus monkey.
Nungwi is the most popular village with tourists, thus making the east coast beaches more sleepy and ideal if you don't want to bump into other tourists.
Depending on the season, they downright look deserted, with no one else in sight for miles, except the occasional staff from the nearby restaurant or seaweed harvesters.
When the tide is low, you can even walk to inspect the harvest up close. Just be careful not to step on any sea urchins, littered all over the ocean bed.
Although not really a party destination, all in all Zanzibar is not really a family destination unless your kids have a high boredom threshold.
It's a place to relax and wander around aimlessly to take in the beautiful scenery. There's nothing like meeting a man walking a camel after walking for half an hour on a deserted path near the beach, or the sight of the seafront after getting lost amid the labyrinthine streets, mingling with men in white skullcaps and women in veils.
How to get there Take the ferry from Dar Es Salaam, mainland Tanzania, or fly from several destinations within Tanzania. Emirates flies to Dar from Jakarta via Dubai and Nairobi.
Although you can obtain visa on arrival in Dar Es Salaam, you have to through immigration again in Zanzibar since it is a semi-independent state. No need to get an additional visa, though.
Money
Prices for accommodation and services ranges from cheap to expensive, but check in advance because a lot of the businesses only take cash for payment.
Prices are quoted in US dollars for tourists. ATMs are now available in Zanzibar, but only at Stone Town.
