Istanbul: Living with real-life tolerance of diversity

The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 07/01/2007 10:33 AM  |  Life

Ve Handojo, Contributor, Istanbul, Turkey

What is Turkey made of? A something of everything.

It's Byzantine and it's Ottoman. Once the strongest Muslim Empire in human history, it was also witness to the birth of Christianity.

It is also the cold Aegean Sea and warm Sea of Marmara blended in the lukewarm Bosphorus -- also known as the Istanbul Strait.

Istanbul -- the Eurasian city -- is the heart of Turkey that never stops beating. It pumps out an energy so unique it brings life to everything, yet maintains it all in a harmonious blend.

This is where one can witness how differences are truly celebrated.

The Jakarta Post contributor Ve Handojo was invited to Istanbul recently by the Turkish Embassy Tourism & Information Office, Kuala Lumpur, to sample what Istanbul has to offer.

The most obvious indication of this can be found in Sultanahmet neighborhood, where the mighty Blue Mosque stands facing Hagia Sophia museum.

The Blue Mosque, or Sultan Ahmed Mosque, with its six minarets and blue tiles adorning the interior walls, is a must-see for every Muslim pilgrim in the world.

Hagia Sophia was originally the Megala Ekklessia, or Great Church, first built in 360AD and inaugurated by Constantinus II.

In the 16th Century, the Ottoman empire added minarets, and it turned into a mosque. In 1935, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk converted Hagia Sophia into a museum, showing how two of the most mutually hostile religions in the world could stand virtually under one roof.

This is where mosaic walls portraying the Virgin Mary, and Arabic calligraphy praising Allah, stand next to each other.

Try walking down Istiklal Street -- the busiest avenue in Istanbul where thousands of passersby come flooding seven days a week. Together with adjoining Siraselviler Street, it is an eclectic enclave filled with excitement and happenings.

This is where to find hip new fine dining venues, like Istanbul 360 (www.360istanbul.com) and Changa (www.changa-istanbul.com), coming together with carts selling pretzel-like simit (Turkish bread) at 0.5 YTL (New Turkish lira, about 30 US cents) each.

Young people dressed for a night out cross the long avenue using the nostalgic, 19th-Century tram.

An old building with Roman columns accommodates a Starbucks cafe. International boutiques and local ready-to-wear stores become the background for street musicians performing with their traditional instruments.

Cinema halls playing Spider-Man 3 stand side-by-side with hamam, the authentic Turkish baths.

Shisha cafes, jazz clubs, hooligan-filled Irish pubs and drag-queen-stuffed bars also find a home in Istiklal Street and Siraselviler Street. A long day's walk through these streets in the summer is the best excursion Istanbul can offer.

Contemporary art; alluring aromas

The streets lead to piers across the Bosphorus boardwalk. The best way to explore them is to start with a breathtaking view from the top of Galata Tower.

The tower was erected in 1348 as Christea Turris (Tower of Christ) when Istanbul was still called Constantinople. Today, it is a highly commercialized tourist area with an overpriced restaurant on the top, and flea market that occasionally takes place in the outer court.

For 10 YTL the spiral stairway is opened, leading to the top of the tower where thousands of tourists take in a 360-degree view of the Bosphorus. Though the treat is no further than that, Galata Tower is still worth the recommended 10-minute visit.

A healthy 30-minute walk, soothed by the gentle breeze of the Bosphorus, will take you to another view of contrast in Tophane neighborhood. Nusretiye Mosque was built in 1825.

Regular groups of tourists may pass by this quiet stone mosque due to the lack of a parking lot for big buses. Of course, this is good news for the independent traveler.

While calligraphy and other Muslim ornaments carved there are obviously inherited from the golden age of the Ottoman empire, the influence of Roman architecture is inevitable.

The main entrance with curvy stairways, royal ribbon carvings on the outer walls and a dome that looks like those in Catholic churches clearly say it all.

Yet, this is not just another ""clash"" of religious cultures and architecture story. Right behind this serene old mosque is Istanbul Modern Museum of Art (www.istanbulmodern.org) -- dressed simply, plain, Zen-like, and with no ornamentation at all.

The boxy, red-and-white building houses some of Turkey's finest contemporary art.

The permanent exhibition displays paintings, sculptures and staggering installation works by avant-garde artists.

To be honest, visiting centuries-old historical sites with a similar kind of attractions may be endless, and can be quite exhausting.

Taking a two-hour break at Istanbul Modern -- gasping at the contemporary art and enjoying high-tea in the swanky caf with a terrace facing the Bosphorus -- will complement your perspective on Istanbul.

Between the modern museum and ancient mosque is a place full of fragrance. It seems to be where Turkish people find how to keep life in balance amid all that diversity.

Unlike the manicured garden between The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, this place is quite small and narrow, and -- thank God once again! -- seemingly unlisted in tour guides' agendas. Yes, I'm talking about rows of shisha cafes.

Senior citizens and youngsters flock together here to enjoy life the Turkish way. They sip hot, sweet tea in tulip-shaped glasses, while lounging on huge bean bags, playing backgammon, and smoking shisha of various flavors.

Strolling down the long aisle will feel like walking through the perfumery section of a department store, only better. The aromas of vanilla, apple, cinnamon, grape and many more spice up the air. Sitting there means you blend yourself in completely with the locals.

One city, two continents

The European side of Istanbul is where it all happens. The vibrant Beyoglu district embraces its status as the New Paris. However, the Asian side has another kind of charm that many travelers may neglect.

The truth is, the crossing itself is an adventure worth taking. Take the Bosphorus Bridge, which spans more than 1.5 kilometers -- officially the longest bridge in the world outside the United States.

Better yet, take a cruise ship from all the koys (piers) -- and move from one continent to another in style across the clear Bosphorus.

Cengelkoy, a harbor area on the Asian side, is subtly blooming, and has become the place to go only for those in the know.

It has a wealth of country-style wooden houses, seafood fine-dining and seaside promenades. A fabulous stay in one of the best new hotels in the world, Sumahan On The Water (www.sumahan.com, www.epoquehotels.com/sumahan), means enjoying a landscape of Istanbul in the most overwhelming way.

The hotel gives you a chance to plunge directly from your hotel room into the Bosphorus. Every room gives a clear horizontal take on Istanbul's landscape: a condensed city with minarets that reach for the sky, all floating on the still lukewarm water of the Bosphorus.

In the clear summer sky, seagulls soar above, hovering over cruise ships and speedboats.

Thus, this is the best way to experience Istanbul: stay on the Asian side, have fun on the European side. It confirms my personal preferences about what continent to live in, and where to go for a holiday.

Talk of adding another star to the EU flag to represent Turkey has been going on for long.

Practical steps to speed the process include revaluation of the old currency and the introduction of New Turkish Lira, in January 2005, where six zeros were slashed, thus making Turkish bank notes look more like euros, and less like rupiah.

World travelers are rushing to visit Turkey to collect a soon-to-be-rare Turkish visa stamp in their passport. To join the race, visit www.gototurkey.com.

Five must-do things * Enjoy a bone-twisting massage in a traditional hamam. It may lack Earth-loving philosophy and Eastern exoticism, but it is guaranteed to leave you feeling reborn. * Try a communal shisha pipe, and play backgammon. * Drink raki -- the Ottoman answer to tequila. It contains 50 percent alcohol by volume -- for the daring only. * Travel from one continent to another within five minutes, via the Bosphorus on boat, or via the Eurasian bridges. * Have a kebab for breakfast, then burn off the calories by walking down Siraselviler Street, Istiklal Street and through the surrounding neighborhoods. For lunch, grab some simit bread.

Favorite gifts (beside rugs) * Anything with blue Devil's Eye, believed to cast away evil spirits: Bracelets, necklaces, fridge magnets, mugs, photo frames -- you name it. * Ibrik (Turkish coffee grinder). It comes in different sizes, all devoted to grinding good-quality Turkish coffee beans. * Turkish tailors produce Savile Row-type suits at reasonable prices with generous discounts. The fabric is of good quality too. Gentlemen, go shopping!

Getting around * Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com) fly directly from Singapore to Istanbul, and is ranked top for safety in Europe. Economy seats have a video-on-demand feature. * The popular way to reach the city from Istanbul Attaturk International Airport is to use the airport transfer bus, operated by Havas. For YTL 9 (US$ 6.50), it reaches Taksim Square in 30 minutes. * The yellow cabs are much like Jakarta's blue, red, green or orange cabs: Drivers don't speak English, may take you the long way, or cheat the meter. They are also more expensive. * Learn the subway routes -- the subway is safe, clean and cheap.

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