Italy on the tip of the tongue

The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 07/08/2007 11:01 AM  |  Life

Sascha Pries, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Pasta, boiling water, a pinch of salt and 12 minutes cooking. That is, what most people believe, all that it takes to make good spaghetti.

Luigi Girardin, a native Italian chef working temporarily at Paparazzi restaurant in Plaza Indonesia, would probably disagree vehemently. In Italy, cooking the pasta properly is as much art, as is the preparation of the sauce.

Sufficient salt is crucial, or the whole dish will be tasteless. Putting oil in the water to keep the spaghetti from sticking together is a worst-case scenario, as the sauce won't stick to the pasta later on.

If the pasta is cooked for too long it will be flabby; too quickly and it will be crispy. The true Italian accepts his pasta al dente (with bite) only.

Even though Asian noodles and pasta look somewhat alike, they don't have that much in common. The relatively mushy texture of mie goreng (fried noodles) for example, is far from al dente. The sheer endless diversity of pasta shapes (fusili, cannelloni, lasagna, penne, spaghetti, etc.) is not really matched by glass noodles and mie.

These differences may even pose problems for the Indonesian food enthusiast, given the difficulties of preparing spaghetti, plus the problem of eating it ""correctly"".

Whereas Indonesians tend to eat a lot of their food with a spoon, an experienced Italian pasta eater wouldn't even think of using a spoon to twist the spaghetti onto his fork. His left hand might hold a piece of ciabatta (Italian white bread) or a glass of chianti (Italian red wine), but never a spoon.

When Girardin began to cook in front of an audience in Plaza Indonesia, a frisson of Italian lightness started to spread through the air. Mediterranean scents and the soft flow of Giradin's Italian voice made for the right ambience.

Three different sauces and a salad were prepared by the chef in one hour. Spaghetti ""Norma"" and ""Estate"" are tomato sauces, whereas spaghetti Aglio (garlic), Olio (oil), Pepperocino (red, Italian, dried chili) and mushroom are traditional oil-based sauces that can be pretty spicy, as experienced by a surprised Indonesian woman in the audience.

All of the dishes are available at Paparazzi restaurant.

More basic ingredients like basil leaves, olive oil and garlic were used by the chef, as well as rather unusual condiments -- at least to Indonesians -- like capers and pecorino (an Italian Parmesan-like cheese made of goat's milk).

Girardin, who wore a very unusual checkered hat and pants, said, ""These dishes are typical Italian food, but I'm not a normal Italian chef."" As is usual for Italians, though, his gestures might have told the audience more than a thousand words from his Indonesian translator.

As wine is the beverage traditionally relished alongside Italian pasta, Indonesians might learn to enjoy this Mediterranean food even more.

The emerging wine culture in Jakarta is growing constantly, with wine shops and bars sprouting all over the city. The enjoyment of wine is regarded as a part of a fine and decent lifestyle, especially given the positive influence on health it is believed to possess.

Originally a food for and from poorer people, pasta, in its uncountable varieties, has long since become a meal that has joined a la carte dishes at the noblest restaurants all around the globe.

In Indonesia, Italian pasta is unlikely to become a staple for ordinary people. The price of peeled tomatoes, pasta and other imported ingredients is far higher here in real terms than it is in Italy; this means pasta is a delicious alternative to noodles -- but for those who can and wish to afford it.

Paparazzi Restaurant
Plaza Indonesia
ground jloor
Jl. Thamrin 28-30
Central Jakarta

tel. 3192 7938

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