Lisbon: A slice of European culture at a budget price

The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 07/15/2007 2:18 PM  |  Life

Krabbe K Piting, Contributor, Lisbon

Ladies, if you want to feel like the most beautiful woman on earth, go to Portugal.

An English woman once said, ""I could walk around with a bag over my head and they would still profess their love. They just love women over there.""

While I didn't test the bag-over-head theory, I did find the Portuguese a very friendly lot indeed (obviously not to Pattimura or his comrades, but very amiable to tourists nonetheless).

Even the buskers on the Lisbon metro were sweet-natured -- not pushy like the ones at Cawang (East Jakarta) intersection. Now that our countries have resumed diplomatic relations, Indonesians can visit this pretty country with no hassle.

Lisbon is the main gateway to Portugal; make sure you stay here for a week before you head to Porto or to the beaches. For a capital city, it is not short on character.

Its position on seven low hills beside the River Tagus once lured traders and settlers from the Iberians to the Moors.

According to legend, it was Ulysses who founded this city and gave it its original name, Olisipo. Ever since the time when the city was conquered by the first king of Portugal, it has always been known as Lisboa to the Portuguese.

In 1255 Lisbon became the capital of the Portuguese kingdom and is one of oldest cities of Europe. In fact, it still has that quaint charm of Olde Europe with its narrow and winding cobblestone streets and centuries-old buildings.

This stunning city is comprised of small and charming villages like Chiado and Bairro Alto where hip Lisboetas (inhabitants of Lisbon) go for a lively nightlife.

In these areas, trendy, yet affordable cafes exist right next to secondhand clothing or record shops. Affluent tourists willingly fork out their dough for a Fado performance in one of the touristy restaurants here, but I recommend saving your 70 euros for dinner in a family-run restaurant for a more satisfying fare and watching Fado at festivals instead (or just buy the CD).

Cathedral, castle and cliffs

Despite its seemingly confusing and sometimes irregular grid system, Lisbon is a relatively easy city to navigate. Most of the major attractions are located near to each other and within walking distance or a bus/creaky-tram-ride away.

The downtown area, otherwise known as the Baixa, is located in the 18th-Century area around Rossio, one of the city's main squares since the Middle Ages that was the setting of popular revolutions and celebrations, bullfights and executions.

East of the arcade Praa do Comrcio, where you'll find government buildings and an extensive tourist information center, is the S Cathedral.

Inside, you can view excavated ruins from the Roman era. Further east are the medieval quarters of Alfama and Mouraria, crowned by the magnificent Castelo de Sao Jorge (St. George's Castle).

The castle rises up on the highest hill of old Lisbon where the first-known defense dates back to 138 BC. Although the current castle is actually a replica of the original (the 1755 earthquake severely damaged the early structure), it still is a must-see.

Its location on top of the city's highest hill provides a magnificent 360-degree view of Lisbon, including that of the statue of Christ overlooking the city from across the river in the municipality of Almada, a smaller replica of the one in Rio de Janeiro.

Also on Alfama, in the Campo St.Clara, is the twice-weekly Feira da Ladra (Thieves Market). No longer offering stolen goods, the market nowadays has everything from new and secondhand clothing to toys and porn!

On the western extreme is Belm, where old meets new with its Belm Tower, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was an offshore watchtower to protect the city's harbor (or as some of the locals say, ""to keep an eye on the Spaniards""), and the ultra-modern Cultural Center of Belm, which holds art exhibitions and the location of the Design Museum.

Also in Belm is the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, a grand monastery that took 70 years to complete, mostly financed through the spice trade and currently the final resting place of Vasco da Gama.

After soaking up the atmosphere and culture of the capital, make sure you take several day trips from Lisbon. Head to Cascais, a resort area an hour away from Lisbon, and Cabo do Roca, 40 kilometers west of Lisbon, for the westernmost point of mainland Europe.

Its coordinates are inscribed on a stone plaque on the monument at the site. The cliff rises out of the Atlantic Ocean to approximately 140 meters above sea level.

Ignore the strong winds and walk to the tip of the cliff. From this point of the continent, the expansive views of the glorious ocean with fierce waves lapping up the cliffs are unforgettable.

*****

All in all, Lisbon is a good place to experience Europe on a budget. Prices at Lisbon are not stratospherically high (yet) like the rest of Western Europe, but you get beautiful scenery, a rich history (although at the expense of our ancestors), colorful culture and delicious food.

Make sure you visit it before it plays catch-up with its more affluent neighbors.

Lisbon lowdown

* How to get there
All European carriers fly to Lisbon via Singapore; check for fares.

* Food
Lots of good-quality international fare, but do sample the delicious local fare. And since Lisbon is famous for its seafood, try the bacalhau (salted cod).

Some Indonesian cuisine originated from Portugal, such as risol, so make sure you sample the original!

* Getting around
In the city: Tram, bus, metro, taxi. Trams are not recommended if you don't have strong arms to steady yourself on uphill journeys and during abrupt stops. For destinations around downtown Lisbon, taxi fare usually comes up to less than five euros. Watch out for additions, though.
From the airport: the Aerobus is cheap and efficient. Taxis are not recommended as they are ridiculously expensive since tourists usually get scammed into paying more.

* Safety
Lisbon gets a bum rap compared with other Western Europe capitals, but as long as you keep your common sense you'll be fine. The most common threat is pickpockets.

* Visa
Portugal is one of the European countries that signed the Schengen Agreement. Once you have obtained a Schengen visa, you can travel easily from one Schengen country to another.

* Shopping
Indonesians would love it here, since shops close later than their European counterparts. Porto wine and local crafts such as porcelains with rooster (the city's mascot) and Ugg-like slippers and boots are good bargains.

Copyright © 2008 The Jakarta Post - PT Bina Media Tenggara. All Rights Reserved.