Rustique Grill and Wine: New venue with diverse flavor and design

The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 08/12/2007 1:03 PM  |  Life

Tiffany Wan and Sascha Pries, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

It's not easy to satisfy the fastidious palate of Jakarta's upmarket food enthusiasts. Used to a huge range of different upscale restaurants, Jakartans have developed a keen sense for high-quality food.

Thus, to attract customers into a new restaurant and stand the competition, it takes more than just fancy interior design and fine dishes.

That's why new Rustique Grill and Wine has come up with a sophisticated concept.

As the specialit de maison, Rustique chef Fany Hermawan offers his customers Australian and Brazilian imported beef, ""dry aged"" for 21 to 28 days, according to a traditional recipe in a process known as hanging.

""The beef becomes very tender and juicy, because the rigidity of the cell structures in the meat sags during the hanging,"" Fany said.

Located on the fourth floor of Plaza Senayan next to the escalators leading to the recently reopened cinema, the fare at Rustique consists of much more than just beef. Embracing a diverse culinary palette of about 40 Asian and European dishes, the menu accommodates a wide variety of tastes.

Starting with a generously portioned buffalo mozzarella caprese salad sparsely topped with balsamic vinaigrette and cracked black pepper for Rp 36,000, one could move on to the dangerously tender char-sui lamb shank with lime-infused jasmine rice and sambal bok choy for Rp 106,000.

The menu also contains risotto and a range of tapas for starters.

But the main attraction, as Fany would have you to believe, is the tenderized steak. Starting from Rp 168,000 and running up to Rp 298,000, customers can also have their choice of potato side dish, vegetables and homemade dipping sauce.

Besides a range of European desserts, there are more than 20 flavors of homemade ice cream, some of which are made from exotic fruit like mangosteen and kiwi.

Accompanying the delectable selection of food is a sumptuous restaurant atmosphere, said to be inspired by European dining culture.

""We wanted to create a bistro-like ambience with the interior decor,"" said marketing manager Felicia Ingrid.

When asked about Rustique's close proximity to Plaza Senayan food court, Felicia replied, ""We have a completely different concept in mind.""

Christoph Darjanto, co-owner of Rustique, added, ""We aim at customers that want high-quality food with a special value.""

""We had the choice between a venue in South Jakarta and this one in Plaza Senayan,"" said Felicia. Aiming at cinemagoers, afternoon shoppers and the after-hours crowd, the location in Central Jakarta perfectly fulfills Rustique's ambitions.

Although Rustique may miss the mark in creating a true bistro-like atmosphere given its spacious seating area (which can accommodate up to 110 patrons) and a private back area, the food is nonetheless spot-on.

Gigantic and ornately framed black mirrors, reminiscent of 18th-Century Versailles, mingle with bare brick walls and a late-20th-Century exposed industrial ceiling, making for an eclectic, yet esthetically pleasing design concept.

In collaboration with noted interior designer Sonny Sutanto (who also did interior design for Dragonfly and Blowfish), Fany made the unconventional choice of designing an open kitchen.

Returning home to Jakarta after more than a decade abroad, Fany hopes to infuse local chefs with the culinary expertise he acquired from working in the restaurant industry in Australia.

""Working habits and efficiency are very different in Indonesia and Australia,"" Fany said, adding he hoped to get rid of initial frictions as the team gradually settles into the new working atmosphere.

In order to attract a more diverse customer base, Fany will provide daily specials, a selection of wines and a lunch menu for more casual diners. To keep things fresh, he hopes to alter the selection of dishes every few months.

As the Jakarta in-crowd is known for its fickleness, frequently jumping from the latest hot-spot to the next, only time will tell whether Rustique has real staying power.

in box:
Rustique Grill & Wine
Plaza Senayan Level P4 #413
Jl. Asia Africa no. 8
Central Jakarta 10270

tel. 57852760
fax. 57852761

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