Some Smokin' Noodles

The Jakarta Post   |  Sat, 12/22/2007 6:53 PM  |  Street Eats

Got the mid-morning (or midnight) munchies? Then try a bowl of this spicy noodle dish.

There's something in these noodles, we thought. Something familiar but different, kind of sweet and grassy. It was a distinctive taste that set Mie Aceh apart from the myriad other kinds of noodles we had tried in Jakarta.

A friend turned us on to the Mie Aceh vibe when he scored some from a stand at our local market in Bendungan Hilir. After a few more visits we were hooked for life. Only months later did we find out -- from Vice President Jusuf Kalla himself -- that the secret ingredient in Mie Aceh is ganja.

Yes, that kind of ganja. The Vice President was quoted in the news saying he opposes legalizing marijuana, but supports allowing a little Mary Jane to be used as a traditional spice in Mie Aceh and other dishes.

Who knew the second in command was so … well … groovy?

Actually, not to kill your buzz, but Mie Aceh wouldn't have enough marijuana to get you high even if you smoked it. We're not sure how much of Mie Aceh's pleasantly herb-y flavor might come from ganja. At least two of the places below, however, did say they used it in their bumbu, the fresh-ground spice paste that is the starting point of so many Indonesian dishes.

Mie Aceh comes in various styles including Basah (boiled, kind of sloppy), Tumis (boiled and then fried), or Goreng (fried). It generally has bits of beef, tomatoes, bean sprouts, and green onion tops, and may also include shrimp. The traditional accompaniments are emping melinjo, those bitter, slightly crumbly fried crackers you will often find served with gado-gado, as well as sliced cucumbers, pickled bird's-eye chilis, and some delicious picked shallots.

We like Mie Aceh fried, which coats the noodles with flavor and makes them a little sticky. The good stuff, as far as we are concerned, is on the dry side and spicy enough to redden the eyes.

If you're looking for a Mie Aceh connection, BenHill is a good place to start. We hit two restaurants and a noodle stall near the market, then branched out to a fancy mall food court and a warung in South Jakarta. Here's the breakdown:

Meutia Masakan Aceh, Jl. Bendungan Hilir Raya Kav. 36A No. 16, Central Jakarta, (021) 573-6718
This spot across from the BenHill market is pleasantly decorated with Acehnese photos and textiles. The Mie Aceh contained bits of beaten egg in addition to the usual meat and vegetables, which is a nice touch. But the noodles were a bit of a disappointment, emphasizing hot chilis instead of the more complex plant-y flavor we covet. Regular noodles are Rp 12,000 (about US$1.20); the shrimp version is Rp 16,000.

Mie Aceh cart, Pasar BenHill
Sometimes the cheapest street food is the best. Happily, that turned out to be the case here. This Mie Aceh was the clear winner, boasting that distinctive herbaceous flavor and a nice zing of chili. You can see the spices clinging to the noodles. And for Rp 7,000, they won't break the bank. If you order take-out, ask them to wrap the crackers separately, or they'll get soft.

Rumah Makan Seulawah, Jl. Bendungan Hilir Raya No. 3 (021) 925-4921
Located across from the Mintohardjo hospital, a couple of blocks west of the BenHill market, this restaurant is smaller and less fancy than the Meutia. The noodles were quite good, though a little less herb-flavored than at the food cart in the market.

Mie Aceh Bang Jali, Plaza Indonesia Food Court
These noodles carried the highest price tag, most of which must go toward their rent in this upscale food court. Their Mie Aceh Special comes with a few big shrimp. It was a bit wetter than we like, and emphasized chili at the expense of the spices.

Mie Aceh Si Doel, Jl. Lenteng Agung No. 18, South Jakarta
These gave the BenHill market stand a run for its money, with good flavor and a bit of chili heat. The staff were very friendly and brought a newspaper and a glass of water while packing up our takeout order.

+ Trish Anderton and Chad Bouchard

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