Bangkok: All things to all people

Prodita Sabarini ,  The Jakarta Post ,  Bangkok   |  Sun, 02/10/2008 12:57 PM  |  Travel

GRAND COLUMNS: The facade and columns of the Grand Palace are sumptuously decorated with classical Thai carving. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

The metal benches were icy cold at Bangkok's new airport, Suvarnabhumi. At 2:30 a.m., waiting to board the plane back to Jakarta, flashes of scenes from the last four days passed one by one through my mind.

The giant Buddha at Wat Pho temple, the three-wheeler taxis known as tuk-tuk, the view of Bangkok at night from Sirocco and the Sky Bar and the beautiful lady-boys.

The benches were cold. I was tired. But I did not mind. Bangkok left me completely satisfied.

I arrived and left Bangkok in the same fashion: early in the morning. The long queue at the immigration gates for foreigners at 2 a.m. at Suvarnabhumi when I arrived showed that Bangkok's tourism industry is looking good.

As the capital of the kingdom of Thailand, the country's center of commerce, and the home of Thailand's royal palaces, Bangkok is both modern and traditional, making it an interesting tourist destination.

Monks in sandals and saffron robes walk in the busy streets. Pictures of a younger, slimmer, bespectacled king, wearing traditional Thai garb can be seen on huge bridges, on the walls of tall buildings and on sidewalks. And Bangkok's pride and joy, the Skytrain, runs past huge glittering malls.

Bangkok's official name is quiet a mouthful. Thai people shorten it to Krung Thep or the City of Angels. The full-length version can be translated as: "Great city of angels, the repository of divine gems, the great land unconquerable, the grand and prominent realm, the royal and delightful capital full of nine noble gems, the highest royal dwelling and grand palace, the divine shelter and living place of reincarnated spirits."

While the city bears a divine name, it puts on various faces, making it all things to all people. The general population has embraced modernity but only the most delicate portrayal of the royal family is acceptable. Kissing in public may make others blush and squirm uncomfortably, but changing one's sex has lost its shock value.

I traveled in a group of friends, all of whom were eager to explore Bangkok. We divided our trip into three parts: Culture, inclusive of visiting heritage sites, tasting the local food and watching the famous Thai elephant and crocodile wrestling shows; shopping; and nightlife.

With a full day ahead of me, I left for the Grand Palace and Wat Pho monastery early in the morning. The Grand Palace was the official residence of the king of Thailand from the 18th century to the mid 20th century. Located at Ko Ratanakosin, an area first built for royal grounds, the 218,000 square meter compound was constructed in 1782 during the reign of Rama I. One of its temples is known as Wat Phra Rattanasatsadaram or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It is regarded as the holiest of all Thai temples. This is where the small green jade statue of Buddha is placed, high on its golden alter.

The Emerald Buddha is dressed according to the season. When the season changes, the crown prince will change the clothes of the Buddha, with the Thai people watching through national television.

The Thais certainly have an eye for detail. The tall pillars and the walls of the buildings in the temple complex are encrusted with colorful shiny beads and brass. The walls of the temples are painted with murals showing daily life in the kingdom as well as stories of war and peace.

Just across the street from the Grand Palace is Wat Pho monastery. It is one of the largest and oldest temples in Bangkok and home to more than 1,000 Buddha images. The 46-meter-long Reclining Buddha, which depicts him lying on his side with his right hand supporting his head, is the main attraction of Wat Pho. The body of the Reclining Buddha is plated with gold while the soles of his feet and eyes are decorated with mother of pearl.

The two compounds are surrounded by high white walls, but the rooftops of the temples are visible from afar. Leaving the compound for lunch, I watched the rooftops slowly disappear from sight.

We ate at Rose Garden in the Greater Bangkok area by the Chao Phraya, the longest river in Bangkok. Inn and Chan, the name of the restaurant, is derived from the names of the first internationally known conjoined twins. The term Siamese twins, referring to conjoined twins, was also taken from Inn and Chan.

At Inn and Chan, the Toom Yam Goung soup was perfect. Back in Jakarta, every time I try Toom Yam Goung soup I wince because it is just too sour. But, at Inn and Chan, the blend of sweet and sour is just right, as is the combination of prawns and mushrooms.

PLETHORA OF CHOICES: Chatuchak weekend market offers and eclectic range of souvenirs. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

The best time we had in Bangkok was shopping at the Chatuchak weekend market. Located in Greater Bangkok, we went there in a minivan, but the best way to get there is by Skytrain. Mo Chit station is only about five minutes walk away from the market.

Wearing light clothes, I was prepared for the heat and the crowd at Chatuchak. However, coming from Jakarta, Chatuchak was not as steamy as I expected. It is the largest market in Bangkok, with more than 15,000 shops and stalls.

I found a wide range of products at Chatuchak, from women's bags to pets to flowers. The prices were lower than in Jakarta and I could still bargain. My favorite purchase at Chatuchak was a pair of red dangling earrings for 20 baht or less than a dollar.

While the day was reserved for sightseeing and shopping, the nighttime was set aside for a pub crawl. After eating dinner while watching a Thai traditional dance, we went to Pat Pong night market.

Blaring music from bars filled the warm night air. All kinds of tourists, including couples with little children, strolled through the street market. Women and transsexuals in provocative outfits and buff men stood outside the bars, promoting sex shows to the tourists. Though prostitution is illegal in Thailand, it is a very big industry. Estimates of the number of sex workers vary from 30,000 to more than a million.

A Bangkok resident told me the authorities just let the industry "live". "But we are very strict about minors employed as sex workers. If they're over 18 the authorities will just let them," he said.

A young Thai guy confided the "law of the land" to my group. "Entering Thailand you must remember one thing: the Thai law. After passing the immigration counter, you leave your marriage behind you. You enter Thailand single," he said.

While they laughed at the joke, married members of the group proudly displayed pictures of their spouses and children on their digital cameras. And, at Chatuchak market, the knick-knacks they bought were mostly for family.

If you go...

Getting there: Garuda Indonesia has direct flights to Bangkok

Accommodation and food:

Bangkok has a wide range of accommodation. Most high-end hotels are international chains, with amenities, standards, and phenomenal views at affordable rates compared to other metropolitan destinations. Midrange hotels and budget options are also available.

Bangkok's street food is exceptional. The classic Bangkok eating experience is sitting on a plastic stool by the side of a street.

Getting around:

Bangkok has a number of types of public transportation. You can use the city's public bus system, the skytrain and the subway. The bus is the best option to reach areas not covered by the Skytrain. It is much cheaper (7 baht) than newer public transportation, but is subject to the hassles of traffic. The skytrain covers the newer districts of Bangkok, arriving every few minutes from 6 a.m. to midnight.

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