Fruit on Fire

The Jakarta Post   |  Tue, 02/26/2008 10:00 AM  |  Street Eats

No ordinary fruit salads, rujak and asinan are a spice lover’s delectable delight.

Singapore's adopted superhero Thomas Stamford Raffles said this about rujak in his 1830 book The History of Java:

"Rujak is prepared from unripe mangoes and other fruits, which, being grated, receive the addition of capsicum and other spices and thus constitutes a favorite dish with the natives, though disagreeable to Europeans."

We disagree.

With its sweet-spicy punch of raw fruit and chili sauce, Indonesia's saucy fruit salad is one of the boldest flavors in Jakarta. The sliced fruit is usually crisp and unripe, with a few nuggets of sweet pineapple for accent. Jicama and water apples give the salad its crunch, while the occasional wedge of sour kedongdong  (ambarella) lends a mouth-puckering bite.

The bumbu or spice paste is what distinguishes good rujak. Look for several
layers of flavor that dissolve from one to another. We like a sugary start with nutty tones that leave the lips ringing with spice.

Rojak, as it’s called in Malay, means "mixture", and there may be as many mutations of the rujak recipe as there are islands in Indonesia. There are also versions in Thailand, Malaysia and as far away as Burma. In Surabaya, there's even a savory version (Rujak Cingur) that includes slices of cow's snout.

Pregnant women are said to crave the sweet-sour flavors of rujak -- which is much more appealing than the pickles and ice cream American moms-in-waiting are supposed to want.

The best rujak street carts have a grinding stone for the sauce. Others use a bright red mass-produced sauce that does the job but is mostly just sugar. If you are looking for something with a little more character, check out these spots:

Rujak Aceh Bang Jali, Plaza Indonesia, Jl. Thamrin 28-30, Central Jakarta; Tel. 310-7178

We fell in love with rujak at this stand in the basement of Plaza Indonesia, and it’s still a favorite. Rujak Aceh Bang Jali is on the corner of the food court, near the kwetiau noodle place and across from the gado-gado. They grind up the sauce while you wait, adding something called Achenese salak to the usual ingredients. They are not afraid to go heavy on the chilis, so order “medium spicy” to get the best balance of flavors.

Rujak Uleg Muaro Padang, Jl. Benhil Raya No. 3A, Central Jakarta; Tel. 574-3474

There are three or four rujak carts clustered around the front of this no-fuss eatery near the Bendungan Hilir marketplace. The rujak uleg sauce is thick, with a distinctly fishy taste which will thrill some and horrify others. They leave the peanuts whole, which makes for more crunch.

Mbah Jingkrak, Jl. Bulungan Raya No.26, South Jakarta; 722-0891

Mbah Jingkrak is a cute Javanese restaurant just around the corner from Blok M Plaza, with a Javanese buffet charmingly displayed in stone crockery lined with banana leaves. Their rujak iris features cucumber and guava among other standard rujak fruit. The bumbu has a bit of terasi (fermented shrimp paste), which adds a musky bite.

Asinan
Asinan is a Javanese take on rujak. The selection of fruits is similar, but the sauce is more like a soup. Both versions we tried had raw sweet potatoes in them. We found these a little challenging, but fine if they are sliced thinly. One otherwise humble little block near the Persahabatan Hospital in East Jakarta boasts two noted asinan places:

Asinan Special Ny. Isye, Jl. Kamboja III No. 12, Rawamangun; Tel. 470-7242

This is a take-no-prisoners asinan, with a heavy dose of chilis and an emphasis on tart fruit. It was tasty, but challenging. If you’re eight months pregnant with twins, put this place on speed-dial.

Asinan Betawi H. Mansyur, Jl. Taman Kamboja III No. 10, Rawamangun.

We were a little alarmed when we saw that the napkin holders here were sponsored by an antacid company. But this is actually a gentler version than Ny. Isye’s, with a mild sauce and more ripe fruit. We liked the balance of sweet, hot and sour flavors.

+ Trish Anderton and Chad Bouchard

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