Desert spectacle in Qatar

Alvin Darlanika Soedarjo ,  The Jakarta Post ,  Doha, Qatar   |  Sun, 03/02/2008 11:45 AM  |  Travel

DOHA CENTER: The Islamic Cultural Center in Doha. (JP/Alvin Darlanika Soedarjo)Many people in Indonesia still wince when they hear about Doha. The desert city of Qatar was the host of the Asian Games in 2006 and several other prestigious sporting events, such as tennis and golf tournaments, Formula One and MotoGP. Sport, however, in this small, rich and neutral country in the gulf, is only a fraction of what it can offer to visitors.

Qatar is one of the most peaceful and liberal countries in its region. It has joined the Gulf Cooperation Council, which includes Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates.

The Jakarta Post was invited by flag carrier Qatar Airways to visit the country in February. Winter, from December to March, is considered the best time to visit as it is sunny during the day with a cool breeze at night.

The gas-rich state is catching up with Abu Dhabi and Dubai to be the main international hub of the Middle East. The population of the country is one million. About a third are locals and the rest are expatriates.

English is the country's second language so the signs and directions on the streets are often written in both Arabic and English.

Driving around Doha, the city feels as if it has had a major makeover.

According to Oryx, the in-flight magazine of Qatar Airways, the country has reinvested billions of dollars in gas and oil for its infrastructure and local businesses.

Qatari citizens are eligible to receive medical services, education and home phone lines free of charge.

People mostly drive cars as their means of transportation. High-end car brands are everywhere, many of them white to avoid the heat of the intense sun. During the night, the streets come alive as the locals dine in Qatar's many restaurants in the late hours of the night.

If you're snap happy, be careful of taking pictures of Emir Palace and the veiled women; it is prohibited to take photos of certain people and places in Qatar.

Construction in the country is booming. A 6-year-old building in Doha is considered antiquated. Some of the new buildings resemble opulent bottles of perfume.

The newest building and residential area there is called New Doha. The artificial island Pearl-Qatar is supposed to resemble two pearls inside their shells. Much land has been reclaimed from the Arabian Gulf, such as the land for the new huge airport.

The Qatar government has created open green areas by the roads. Almost everywhere in the city, you'll find beautiful grass and colorful flowers on the side of or in the middle of major roads.

RUG MARKET: The rugs sold at Souq Waqef are imported from neighboring countries. (JP/Alvin Darlanika Soedarjo)

For a taste of old Arabia, an excursion to the traditional souq (market) is a must. The most famous souq in Doha is Souq Waqef. In the ancient days, prominent traders from neighboring countries went there to do business.

Many people in keffiyeh (head dress) walk around or trade their goods, including antiques, fragrant spices, gold, clothes and household goods. The neat and clean market boasts rugs from several countries, such as Iran and Turkey. Some Qatari rugs are hand-woven with camel hair.

The exotic smells of various spices and the shisha bars are enticing.

On the weekend (Friday and Saturday are their days off), locals and tourists flock to the market for social activities. The rhythm of Arabic music is heard throughout the market.

HONEY MAN: (JP/Alvin Darlanika Soedarjo)Jars of mixed honey are items that many want to take home. It's a natural aphrodisiac, according to one seller.

Skip your trip to the city malls as they offer very little interesting for tourists for shopping or dining.

As for food, baklava, a sweet Arabic pastry, is a well-known favorite. When you are in the region, other pastries are also worth trying. Kunafa, a smooth and delicate dessert you can find at the Ritz Carlton Hotel, is a pastry made of rose water, powder, milk and sugar. Almonds, pistachios along with sugar, mango and maple syrups, add to the taste.

Although Doha itself is as flat as a pancake, the long and curvy sand dunes on the outskirts of the country are thrilling. "Fasten your seat belts, please," say the drivers of the four-wheel drives that you can take through the dunes. They took us on a fast and thrilling ride over the desert in a Nissan Patrol and Toyota Land Cruiser.

It was like a roller-coaster ride through the desert as the driver took fast turns through the slopes and skidded sideways some of the way through. Several of the slopes were at 45-degree angles. Before the car went down the slopes, the skilled drivers hit the brakes so the passengers could see how steep the slopes were.

If you've been on the Indiana Jones adventure ride at Disneyland, then this is similar. The difference is that there's a bigger adrenaline rush because of the real feeling of danger. "Oh, I'm relaxed," said our driver Khaled, while cruising on the rather bumpy ground. Khaled, an army officer, drives tourists through the dunes as a second job after his army duties finish for the day.

Apparently, we were just on the "beginner" course, but most of us had broken out in a sweat before the 40-minute ride was over. We ended up at the border of Qatar and Saudi Arabia to see the sunset and take pictures. Super safari indeed.

We were lucky to be able to visit the headquarters of the Al Jazeera television network in Doha. Al Jazeera, although only about a decade old, has established itself as an alternative to other TV networks. It gives multiple opinions and hosts debates on news and world issues. It aims to be the voice of the voiceless, the spokesperson told us. The buildings for the Arabic language and English networks are separated.

The sheik of Qatar himself poured out US$150 million for the establishment of the network. In doing this, he made it clear to the board that the network should remain independent or else it would be dissolved. On their wall, there are stories on Al Jazeera's reporters who died or were kidnapped in the line of duty.

There are also quotes from influential people on the walls of the headquarters. Quotes from Gandhi, Kahlil Gibran and Bob Dylan grace their office walls for inspiration. The reputation of the network, which also has its own documentary and sports channels, has put Qatar on the map as a country with a compelling media.

Qatar, despite its modest size, promises visitors various unforgettable experiences. Doha is rapidly developing and perhaps its ambition to host the 2016 Olympics can become reality.

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