Siena: Welcome to the Middle Ages

Tony Hotland ,  The Jakarta Post ,  Siena, Italy   |  Sun, 03/09/2008 12:47 AM  |  Travel

SIENA FAME: Siena's famous cathedral, the Duomo, stands out against the sky with its black-and-white stripes. (JP/Tony Hotland) At first I didn't appreciate the serenity of Tuscany's most overlooked city of Siena -- where the fairytales and history of Rome and the mystique of Florence collide.

A little south of Florence (Firenze in Italian), Siena may offer fewer attractions than many of Italy's much-vaunted spots; but it also brings relief from the press of tourist crowds.

One of the only two cities in Italy, besides Perugia, where Italian courses for foreign students are available, Siena is not for big-city-type of gals and guys.

The medieval city is home to only 60,000 -- yes, you easily run into the same people more than once a day -- and the city's main elements are contained inside a colossal rampart that was erected during the war as a safeguard from blitzkrieg by neighboring cities.

Siena is said to have been founded by Senio and Ascanio, the sons of Remus -- one of the duo Romulus and Remus who founded Rome. Hence, statues of the wolf feeding the twins can be spotted all over the city.

Siena is divided into 17 districts, or contrada, each with its own appellation, chapel and flag. It is plausible to cover the city's center within the wall on foot.

Set on three hills, the city is woven together by winding alleyways and steep steps all leading up to the shell-shaped town square, the Piazza del Campo, where the imposing Palazzo Publico, or the City Hall, is.

When the day winds down or the weekend says hello, city folk resort to the square as they sprawl in groups facing these Gothic establishments reading, gossiping or simply basking in the summer sun.

A row of delicatessens neatly ring the vast square, easing access to gooey lasagna, flaky pizza with toppings you will unlikely find here, or boldly flavored gelato.

It can get quite hectic here when the sun is out, but roaming inside the town hall and walking up its 102-meter-high tower, or the Torre del Mangia, is one alternative.

The Piazza is so central to the Sienese that it is where many, if not all, happenings take place. It witnessed the passage of memorable characters in the history of Siena like Santa Caterina, the mystical saint who is linked to the image of Siena, as well as artists.

When it was built -- the flooring dates back to the 1300s -- it managed to hold the then entire population of Siena when gathering to attend events, tournaments or races.

The interior of the Palazzo is lined with artworks. The atrium boasts frescoes, most notably those by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, representing the effects of just and unjust governments.

Let me give you a heads up -- I'm no Kenneth Clarke when it comes to art. There will be no more name dropping or analyses of sculptures from here on in.

I checked out the museums and the churches just for the, well, Italian artsy hotties.

One of Siena's remarkable landmarks is the Duomo, one of the most enchanting cathedrals in Italy. Its black-and-white striped marble facade has a Romanesque lower section, and the inlaid marble floor features works depicting biblical stories.

A few ruined walls and arches remain to show the magnificence of the cathedral's uncompleted design due to the plague and wars, which would have created one of the largest churches in the world.

Museo dell'Opera del Duomo is located on the corner of the Duomo. This museum is home to sacred works dating from 1300 to 1500, including those by the famous Duccio.

One reason why you should swing by here is the snaky, incredibly high staircase that leads up to an outdoor walkway, from which you get a panoramic view of Siena.

Santuario di Santa Caterina da Siena is a popular spot that was the home of Saint Catherine. Inside, there is the Oratorio della Cucina, which was once the family's kitchen and the Oratorio della Camera, where Siena's patron saint once rested.

Locating this building can be stressful thanks to Siena's narrow and winding lanes. Oftentimes they are so steep that touring the city can make a "hater" rather than a lover out of you.

I'm not saying this was the case for me though.

Located on a wider thoroughfare is Pinacoteca Nazionale, or the National Picture Gallery. This holds the largest collection of Sienese paintings, including great masters from the 12th century through to the first half of the 17th century and works painted on backgrounds of gold leaf.

The horses of Siena

The horse race, or Il Palio di Siena, is in essence the city's identity and the most waited event-cum-tourist attraction. It is held in the Piazza del Campo where throngs of people vie for the best spot to indulge and have a dry run of the race.

Originally held once a year, a second Palio was approved in 1656 according to one city history. The race takes place on July 2, both the date of a festival honoring the Madonna of Provenzano and the Feast of the Visitation, and on Aug. 16, the day after the Feast of the Assumption.

The Palio is run on a dirt track rounding the cobblestone-patterned piazza for a mere few minutes, despite preceding festivities and excitement a couple of days earlier.

These activities include schoolchildren putting on silk scarves bearing their districts' mascots and bold colors, the blessing of the horses, and residents hanging flags outside their homes and on storefronts.

Ten of Siena's 17 districts compete in the race either by winning the right to be included, such as by being the defending champion, or by lottery.

On the day of Palio, spectators crowd into the piazza from noon on, braving the scorching sun. The more sedate, however, will pay for seats situated around the edge of the piazza, which are usually sold out months in advance.

The jockeys don distinctive costumes and brandish oversized flags of the district they represent as they gallop around the track to the awe of the gasping and roaring spectators.

The piazza is sealed minutes before the horses are off, and it is over before the dust settles. Then the winning contrada feasts and celebrates for weeks afterward.

Dining and Tuscany's Wine

They say Italians value eating beyond almost anything else. A loaf of bread can comprise a romantic meal if you're having it with an Italian. Well, of course, main courses and desserts should follow.

There are four phases when eating, particularly at restaurants -- appetizers (bread, potato fries), first course (lasagna, spaghetti or vegetable pasta), second course (fried fish, chicken with mushrooms or pork) with vegetable on the side, and desserts (cold fruits, chocolate mousse or gelato).

And after you've burned that off -- or not -- drinking wine comes naturally.

Statues, museums and churches could be called the main attractions in Siena. But what stands out the most is that few geographical areas in the world can parallel the variety of environments that surround the city.

To the north, there is the richness of the Chianti landscape, gilded with vines and olive trees over the hills. Here sit the towns of San Gimignano and Monteriggioni with old walls and breathtaking views.

The Chianti area, between Florence and Siena, is one of the most famous and beautiful countrysides in Italy and, get ready, a very prolific wine production area. Now, that's what matters.

So rich in wine is the region that I once discovered in the supermarket wine sold in juice boxes. One box costed less than one euro. Punch down the straw, and you're set to go. One bottle of excellent Chianti from 2000, for instance, should not cost over 20 euros.

South of Siena, the Arbia valley leads to the hill-top town of Montalcino with its Brunello producing wineries. Westwards, we head toward the coast to captivating coastline towns such as Castiglione della Pescaia and nature reserves like Maremma area.

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