Jean-Marie Bourgeois: (JP/Alvin D. Soedarjo)
Just prior to a wine dinner at an upmarket hotel in Jakarta, Jean-Marie Bourgeois -- who is in the 10th generation of a prominent winemaking family from France -- greeted guests and told family stories.
"This is my grandson," said Jean-Marie, showing a photo on his Blackberry.
Jean Marie's affection for his family extends also to the family business.
"The winemaking process is similar to (the relationship between) a mother and her newborn. We look after everything," Jean-Marie said.
His family has been cultivating vines in the heart of the Sancerre region for about 350 years. The family vineyard is in the village of Chavignol, which is known for its steep and well-exposed slopes.
Starting with only two hectares in 1950, Henri Bourgeois and his sons have expanded the vineyard to 65 hectares, which are ideally situated on the slopes of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume.
Tradition passed on from father to son to watch over the soil and the process of winemaking there. They aim to create wines that are characterized by the authentic character of the various soils.
The winemaker has also ventured to New Zealand, cultivating vines in its Marlborough region. Jean-Marie said they had been searching for the best place to cultivate wine outside France for about 10 years before settling on New Zealand.
During its estimated 350-year winemaking legacy, the family has kept many traditional methods unchanged. "We have made some changes, but only for the benefit of the fruit. It's all about the integrity of the grapes," said Jean-Marie.
In 2007, the producer sold about 2 million bottles of wine. About two thirds of them were exported and the rest were supplied for French consumption.
Henri Bourgeois wine has been available in Indonesia for about five years.
The venue of the wine dinner on April 29 was the Steak House of the Four Seasons Hotel in Jakarta. Guests savored dishes created by executive chef Vindex Tengker together with the imported wines.
The menu was uncomplicated in both look and taste. We tried the Clos Henry Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand with Thyme French Duck Breast with Melon Salad and White Balsamic Essence.
The second course combined the Pouilly Fume Sauvignon Blanc 2006 white wine from France with Risotto with Lemon Crayfish, Roasted Garlic and Goat Cheese.
"Sauvignon Blanc, which is known as a feminine wine, has a smoky element to it," said Jean-Marie, who plans to visit Bali, Kuala Lumpur and Tokyo to promote the labels.
The Clos Henri Pinot Noir 2005 from New Zealand was the star of the evening. The wine has a tender, milky and creamy aroma. On the tip of the tongue it tastes buttery without being overpowering.
The Clos Henri red wine came with the 300 days Old Ranger Valley Angus Beef Medallion with Edamame Bean Spread and Porcini Jus.
Clos Henri is a new vineyard in Marlborough. It aims to create unique and exceptional Marlborough wines following the Henri Bourgeois tradition.
The cheese course of the wine dinner was followed by a glass of Sancerre Les Baronnes Sauvignon Blanc 2005.
During dinner, Jean-Marie moved from table to table with a selection of stones that were found in his vineyards. Some of them had rich aromas like the wines.
"You need a good reason and deep connection to make a wine," he said.
Although he monitors the vineyard and winemaking process from the top, Jean-Marie said the people in the field were the key to the wine's success.
"It's the workers in the field who make the wine."
