Cream of the Crop

The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sat, 05/24/2008 8:04 AM  |  Street Eats

High-end ice cream has arrived in Jakarta. Is it really a scoop or two above the rest of the sweet stuff? With a whole lot of banging going on, Maggie Tiojakin gives it a taste.

 

COLD STONE CREAMERY
Cilandak Town Square (Ground Floor)
Mal Kelapa Gading V (Ground Floor)

A loud greeting of “Welcome to Cold Stone! Welcome to Cold Stone!” heralds visitors to the store, with its quirky but pleasant atmosphere.

Founded in the U.S. by Susan and Donald Sutherland (no relation to the actor) in 1988, it has expanded to more than 1,400 franchises around the world — no small feat for an ice cream parlor which is based in Scottsdale, Arizona. In 2006, it was named the 11th fastest growing franchise by Entrepreneur Magazine.

One of its newest stores is at Cilandak Town Square. PT Mitra Adi Perkasa (MAP) — the giant franchise management company responsible for SOGO Department Store, ZARA and Starbucks Coffee — decided it was time to bring the brand to Indonesia.

It’s not just the sweet sensations that win over customers; there’s also a fun song-and-dance provided for their entertainment.

Cilandak store manager Sherly Tatuwo says that one of the things she looks for when hiring someone is their sense of theatricality. Instead of merely serving ice cream, they also dance, sing and juggle. Leave them a tip: it’s worth it.

Unable to decide what to order, I asked Sherly what she recommended.

“Chocolate Devotion is a big hit here,” she says, “because most Indonesians love chocolate and the flavor is really sweet.”

Sizes are “Like It”, “Love It” and “I Gotta Have It”—which is another way of saying small, medium and large.

The man behind the counter slams two scoops of chocolate ice cream on a flat granite counter, adds several toppings -- chocolate chips and a square piece of brownie -- before the smashing process begins.

Once that is done, he places the mixture into a large, frozen waffle bowl. As a bonus, he pours layers of chocolate fudge on top of the mix.

Now comes the really fun part: eating.

First I chip off an edge of a chocolate-covered edible bowl. Instead of a crack, it produces a dull thud. The waffle is crisp and well-made. I grab the plastic spoon and start digging into the chocolate mixture. The chocolate is soothing and the flavor doesn’t explode until it is well on its way down my throat.

That’s a good sign. The aftertaste is perfect, just enough to satisfy my tastebuds without making me dizzy or nauseous from a sugar-high. Yet, I can’t help but wonder where the “creamery” fits into the whole design.

The brownies are left in chunky pieces, as are the chips. The fudge is very thick, like the kind you use for a fondue experience, making it hard to blend in with the rest of the mix. The texture of the ice cream itself is surprisingly … normal.

But ice cream lovers will still go wild over the menu selections: Peanut Butter Cup Perfection (Reese’s peanut butter cups, peanut butter and fudge), Cookie Doughn’t You Want Some (chocolate chips, cookie dough, fudge and caramel), Birthday Cake Remix (brownie, rainbow sprinkles and fudge), That’s How I Roll (cinnamon, yellow cake and pecas), Strawberry Banana Rendezvous (white chocolate chips, graham cracker pie crust, strawberries and bananas) and more.

The flavors certainly whet the appetite to come back for more. As a hangout place, think of Charlie’s Chocolate Factory. All in all, it’s a winner.

 

CREAM AND FUDGE FACTORY
Plaza EX (Lower Ground)
Senayan City (Lower Ground)

Outlets of the Global Franchise Architects brand Cream and Fudge Factory have always thrived on open spaces. Whether it’s in India, Thailand or Egypt, the seating concept is designed for size and elegance, instead of exuberance. The idea is to turn it into a quick stop for those who are in a hurry but want a few bites of delight before the next shopping spree or a movie.

The Factory relies on basic pastel colors to liven up the space. The choice of flavors is less extensive, but you can concoct your own recipe. Creative patrons who want to experiment on the mix of flavors spend more time standing in front of the freezer, pointing at a variety of ice creams and pondering which goes with which.

Not in the mood to create my own treat, I decide to go with Strawberry Shortcake, my favorite dessert cake. It turns out to be one of the house specialties, comprised of strawberry pie filling, vanilla sponge cake and caramel fudge.

The system (pounding and smashing on a cold granite counter) is more or less similar to that of Cold Stone Creamery, where dollops of ice cream are beaten and whipped with the desired toppings. Except here they take their time to smooth out the chunks.

I order a single scoop, the smallest portion.

Presentation-wise, no one is going to be blown away by the cross-hatched caramel fudge or the pale-colored waffle bowl. It’s been done before. Flavor-wise, though, my teeth are pleased. I anticipate a rush of sugar, but instead it flows almost undetected. The balance between the pie filling and sponge cake is uncanny, in a sense that neither one strikes me as more dominant than the other. Even the caramel seems harmless, adding a squirt of sweet justice to an otherwise “unseasoned” blend.

Texture-wise … it’s divine. It puts the “cream” where it rightfully belongs. And it certainly fits their motto, “the creamiest ice cream on earth.” Everything melts in my mouth before I have the chance to chew on it.

Moreover, the waffle bowl is crunchy and warm.

Cream and Fudge Factory also features Black Forest (cherry pie filling, brownie, chocolate), Rocky Road (roasted almonds, roasted walnuts, mini marshmallows and chocolate fudge), Coffee Break (bread crumbs, Kit-Kat and caramel fudge), Apple Crumble Pie (bread crumbs, apple filling, cinnamon powder and caramel fudge), among 20 other delectable mixtures. And, of course, you can always mix your own.

 

AN ICE CREAM WITH HISTORY

The oldest ice cream parlor in the country, Ragusa “Italian Ice Cream” has long been an integral part of Jakarta’s dining experience. It may not have the glitter of up-and-coming foreign franchises, but the 75-year-old business commands a loyal following.

Founded by an enterprising Italian in 1932, Ragusa is located on Jl. Veteran, next to Dapur Babah. Not just an ice cream parlor, it is also a place where you can get a one-of-a-kind satay dish, otak-otak (fish sticks) and rujak (fruit salad blended in spicy peanut sauce) at a fairly cheap price.

The waiters wear old Dutch-style white uniforms and the antique cash register belongs in a museum. Wicker chairs pack the long, narrow space where patrons are free to smoke and order food from neighboring stalls and cafés. Framed black-and-white photographs hang on the walls, showing the progression of the family business (Today, there are three other branches in Duta Merlin, Gambir EXPO and Cipanas.)

One of the special treats at Ragusa is the Spaghetti Tata, or Spaghetti Ice Cream, served on a spaghetti plate with a mix of vanilla ice cream, crushed peanuts, chocolate fudge and fruit toppings. It does resemble a real plate of the squiggly pasta.

For those who prefer fancier brands of ice cream, there is the Banana Split (Neapolitan-style ice cream sandwiched between two slices of banana), Tutti Frutti (a mix of ice cream and fruit), Cazatta Sicilliana (cake-covered ice cream with crushed nougat) and the popular single cup flavors (mocha, rum raisin, durian, chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, etc.).

It may not have the glitz, but Ragusa serves up dishes that are homemade, old-fashioned and original.

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