Dark, mythical Esmod grads' true color

Prodita Sabarini , The Jakarta Post , Jakarta | Sun, 06/29/2008 10:56 AM | Lifestyle

(JP/J. Adiguna)

Eerie music resonated in the dim hall, human figures with two or three heads wearing masks dragged their feet on the white platform. Their zombie-like movements conveyed a lugubrious atmosphere. No one spoke.

This was not a scene from a horror movie. The white platform was a runway and the zombie-like figures were models showcasing the designs of Esmod 2008 fashion school student Wilson Darlin.

As the models reached the end of the runway, they posed to the applause of the 1,500 people in the audience at Plaza Bapindo assembly hall on Jl. Sudirman, South Jakarta.

Among those in the front row were established designers from the Association of Indonesian Fashion Designers & Entrepreneurs (APPMI) Taruna Kusmayadi, Carmanita, Musa Widyatmojo, Lenny Agustin and Sophie.

Thursday night was a big moment for some 32 students of Esmod.

In the run-up to their 2008 graduation, Esmod, a French franchise fashion school, held the 12th Fashion Festival to showcase the final designs of their students.

(JP/J. Adiguna)

Some 222 outfits, comprising men's, women's and children's wear, were showcased during the two-and-a-half-hours show. The theme this year was True Colors, inspired by the 1980s Cindy Lauper song.

Esmod students are infamous for their creativity. The show Thursday night was a kaleidoscope of wild imagination from designers, extraordinary designs, intricate cuttings and details.

Wilson's designs recalled the destructiveness and hardships of life on earth. The first thought coming to mind looking at his designs was Cormac McCarty's depressing book The Road. Apparently he was inspired by the 1986 Chernobyl nuclear power explosion.

This comes close to the core style for the men's wear collection in the show. The true colors of 2008 Esmod graduates specializing in men's wear seemed reminiscent of the darker side.

Wilson's designs were only one of a series of dark, mythical, fantasy-inspired outfits.

Take Rebecca Marsauli's design, inspired by a tormented samurai, comprising a wide hood covering the head and long sleeved shirts, with an extension of fabric falling to the ground.

A long green coat, with intricate green sequins covering the entire length, showed good craftsmanship on Rebecca's part. She ended her collection with a long white coat, with a scary skeleton appliqued on the back.

Another dark design was by Adrian Aji Arifin, who won the student recognition award from Esmod. His collection was inspired by royal dark fantasy. All black, he projected an androgynous look with corsets, long skirts and leggings. He added details such as chains, nets and feathers suggestive of an aristocratic ambiance.

The presentation of the outfits was very theatrical. Dramatic music in the background and crafty light projection onto empty-eyed models who walked, or more precisely dragged their feet slowly to the end of the runway, instead of strutting fast as in so many fashion shows.

One collection by duo Arbha Sumiarto and Anisatul Isna Khusnul Khotimah stood out due to its use of rich colors.

Bright red skinny trousers, coupled with 80's style hipster jackets or a red shirt mixed with a vest, tie and light blue racer jacket, complete with heavy rimmed glasses, resulting in a fresher lighter feeling amid darker designs. The models mimicked narcissistic celebrities, attracting laughter from the audience.

Best fashion design for men's wear was given to Seiny Margaretha. Inspired by backpackers, she dressed her models in light shirts and khaki vests with comfortable traveling pants.

Most of the women's wear collection had a fairy-like ethereal feel.

(JP/J. Adiguna)

The best fashion design for women's wear went to Yoshita Hirota. She played with transparent drapery frocks, with a light white top with linear pleats across the front. Taking her inspiration from the hippy movement, Hirota worked to make the collection look loose and feminine.

Listiani Wulandari, who received the award for best pattern drafting, also designed loose and light frocks, accompanied with fitted pants. One of her best designs was a layered dress combined with a waist corset intricately detailed with beaded embroidery.

Despite the theatrical glitz and the dramatic clothes, the show stealer that night were the models for children's wear. Walking while wiggling their bottoms, they emanated confidence, attracting animated comments from the audience. "Ah, they're so cute" was heard from every corner.

Designer Musa who acted as the judge for women's wear design said that the student's collection varied. He said that some designs were good and some were a little too much. He suggested the students should design more realistic pieces once they graduated.

The Fashion Festival is an opportunity for Esmod students to meet with designers, textile and garment companies and the media.

It also showcased students' collaboration with companies. Students designed Muslim wear collaborating with Crystallized -- Swarovski Ellements.

Students also designed contemporary sport wear collaborating with jeans manufacturer PT Lea Sanent. Designs by winners of the Gading Designer Awards organized by Kelapa Gading Mall were also showcased at the Fashion Festival.

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