Cooking Up Surprises

What’s this? On a stretch of heretofore nondescript highway north of Ring Road Utara, a plethora of eating establishments has popped up, earning it the nickname “Jalan Kuliner” and hopefully transforming the face of Yogya dining forever. It’s not Jakarta’s Jl. Kemang Raya just yet, but those wishing for more food options in this quaint town are excited about the new trend.

Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar – previously only known for the exalted presence of Hyatt Regency Yogyakarta – is now a diner’s delight. Fifteen food spots have opened in the area since 2005 and three more are debuting soon. And the bonus is that thanks to Yogya-ites, who are famous for demanding good food but don’t like spending their hard-earned rupiah for it, most are in the medium-price range.

For the uninitiated, Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar is called Jl. Monjali south of Ring Road Utara (Km 6). Going north, at Km 17, the road splits. The left fork goes to Desa Tembel and the right one leads to ever-developing Pakem – home of organic fruit and vegetable farms – and from there on to Jl. Kaliurang.

Jalan Kuliner is the stretch of highway north of Ring Road Utara from Km 6 to Km 9. At the beginning of this Restaurant Row, the street is numbered like a residential area, but after the Hyatt – which before last year was set amid wide-open spaces – the addresses are in kilometer markings. At Km 8, the first right turn after the Hyatt, is Jl. Damai. Pass Sawa and Jimbaran restaurants and the first right turn is Jl. Watugede. Keep going east on Jl. Damai, past Jl. Watugede, and the first left turn (follow the Visi Furniture signs) is Jl. Umbul Permai.

Why the sudden interest in a going-to-nowhere road with a too-long name?

Plenty of space away from the crowded, noisy city for an establishment with ample parking space; clean, fresh, cooler air; cheaper land prices; and ambience – especially rice-field and Mt. Merapi views – top the list. Jimbaran ikan bakar owner and former Hyatt food and beverage manager I Ketut Sunesa says he’s been eying this land since 1997, the year prior to the Hyatt’s grand opening. Former Hyatt executive chef Adzan agrees it’s an excellent choice and is exuberant about its development. In 2005, Jimbaran was the first restaurant to open, and today, 11 years later, Sunesa’s vision is becoming a reality.

Authentic Indonesian food dominates the scene and is spotlighted at Pecel Solo (No. 52), Sasanti Restaurant & Gallery (No. 52A, next door to the Hyatt), Bamboo (Km 7.8), the soon-to-open Warung Sunda (Km 8), Pak Sadi Asli (Km 8.5, soto ayam ambengan), Istimewa (Km 8.6, ayam geprek Istimawa) and Rumah Makan Yu Sri (Km 9, nasi pecel). Seafood is well represented, with Jimbaran leading the list of favorites, accompanied by Pelem Golek (Km 7, opened in May 2008), Pari-Pari (Km 8), Umbul Permai (Jl. Umbul Permai), and soon-to-open Kepiting Dogen (Jl. Umbul Permai). Spicy-hot Balinese fare is well represented at Jimbaran, Sapi Bali (Jl. Umbul Permai, barbecued beef ribs) and Ayam Betutu (Jl. Watugede, Gilimanuk-style chicken). International cuisine is featured at Sasanti, Hyatt’s Kemangi Bistro (Km 7), Venezia Café (Km 7, Italian), Hani’s North (Km 7.5, Belgian and “world kitchen”), Sawa (opened in June next door to Jimbaran, Japanese, steak and grill, wine lounge) and Arirang (Km 8.5, mixed Asian, including Japanese and Korean).

Echoing Sunesa’s assessment that developing Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar into Jalan Kuliner is a good investment, the original outlets of several establishments located in the area are in other cities or elsewhere in Yogya. The first Pecel Solo, for example, is in Surakarta, also known as Solo, where the family also owns Nasi Kebuli, Primitive Gallery Furniture & Antiques and Bedoyo Batik Craft. They have recently opened a third Pecel Solo in Senayan, Jakarta. Bamboo has two other restaurants in Yogya. Ayam Betutu has two warungs in Bali and one in Lombok. Pak Sadi Asli originated in Surabaya, and Yu Sri first opened in Semarang in 1970.

Venezia Café is an interesting exception. It’s owned by a foundation supported by Oxfam Australia and provides training and employment in the hospitality industry. It occasionally hosts entertainment, such as a recent Italian film festival, to support its projects: orphanages, education for underprivileged children and support for those affected by HIV/AIDS.

Many establishments are simple sidewalk eateries, but for an elegant up-market dining experience (Yogya-style, which means chic-casual), try Sasanti, Hyatt’s Kemangi Bistro and Sawa, which, along with Hani’s, also serve beer and wine. (Hyatt’s restaurants and lounges, of course, also offer cocktails.)

Having difficulty deciding where to begin your eating extravaganza? Here are the current must-trys:

Going north from Ring Road Utara, the first stop at No. 52 is Pecel Solo, one of several restaurants owned by a family who treasure antiques and authentic Surakarta cuisine. It is set up warung-style, only much larger, and diners are invited to sit on benches that line the walls or at a grand wooden table in the center of the joglo. For groups or families, there’s a private dining room in the back. Combining good food with traditional culture, and surrounded by antiques, vintage photographs and more than 600 wooden cowbells, Pecel Solo is warm and welcoming. Choose from a large variety of vegetables and condiments, which are eaten with rice and side dishes, such as small fish, fried chicken, tahu or tempe. Top the meal off with a traditional drink made with palm sugar, ginger and pandan, and heaven is yours.

At No. 52A (next door to the Hyatt) is Sasanti Restaurant & Gallery. Traditional Indonesian cooking and Western food prepared for Western tastes, together with a relaxing ambience, are Sasanti’s contributions to Jalan Kuliner. Try the bacem kaki kambing (Javanese braised lamb shank), the salmon filet with tropical fruit, tarragon and caper sauce, sandwiches or salads. And don’t forget to save room for the cheesecake, which is divine. There’s live music on Friday and Saturday nights, the kind that’s soft enough to talk over. Enjoy a glass of wine or beer by the reflecting pool in the evening breezes, in the al fresco joglo or in air-conditioned comfort in the private dining room. Sasanti’s lush gardens make it a perfect setting for weddings and parties.

Hani’s, at Km 7.5, is well established in Yogya, having opened its first outlet in the south of the city several years ago serving sandwiches on freshly baked breads, salads, quiche and yummy smoothies and lassies. Over time the menu has expanded, with Hani’s North becoming more of a restaurant than the café the original is. Its eclectic menu includes Belgian, Italian, Indian and Indonesian cuisine, along with other selections from its World Kitchen menu, which includes roasted turkey, pan- fried Merquez (a French sausage) and Moroccan chicken steak. Hani’s North also has a two-bedroom villa behind the restaurant for rent, overlooking rice fields with views of Mt. Merapi.

Past Hani’s, turn right onto Jl. Damai, heading deeper into the countryside. On the right side is the recently opened Sawa, which promises to be one the area’s more up-market establishments. Presenting steaks and grill, Japanese food and a wine bar nestled between paddy fields, the relaxation of clean, fresh air and excellent cuisine will be part of the dining experience.

Continuing on Jl. Damai is Jimbaran, the first and best-known eating establishment in the area. Jimbaran is famous for its ikan bakar, fresh fish flown in from Bali every day and displayed pasar ikan-style both live and on ice. Customers select their own fish, with a large overhead blackboard showing current prices, which are per gram, along with the chef’s recommendations. Selections include crab, mahi-mahi, snapper, king prawns and mussels, which are cooked to order, either grilled or fried. Jimbaran also serves bebek goreng (fried duck, a la Bali) and chicken. Choose from five different sauces, one of which is ideal for not-so-spicy seafood lovers. Live entertainment is offered every night from 7-11 p.m.

The first left turn after Jimbaran leads to Sapi Bali, the ingenious cuisine invented by Yogyakarta chef Adzan and his Balinese partner, Yudi. Cleverly combining Balinese spices with American barbeque techniques, Sapi Bali’s specialty is beef ribs, which are not found in primarily Hindu Bali. Two secret blends of spices are used, the first while braising the ribs – which takes five hours, to seal in moisture and tenderize the beef – and the second in the glaze of spices, tomato ketchup and honey giving the meat a crunchy, caramelized coating that is mouth-wateringly delicious. Sapi Bali also serves grilled fish and chicken. Warning for those who aren’t into hot spices, skip the soup, and order Iga Bakar Kecap, beef ribs glazed with sweet soya sauce. Chef Adzan and Yudi have recently franchised Sapi Bali, and their second warung opened in Jakarta’s Kelapa Gading in June. Rest assured that the food will be identical to the original in Yogya, as the owners have cleverly established their own spice business and will sell the pre-mixed secret spice blends to franchised outlets.

Together with the ever-popular Gadjah Wong, Gabah, Omah Dhuwur and a European castle named Soragan, Yogja certainly has some interesting dining choices. Selamat makan di Jogja.

Author Linda Hoffman loves a wide variety of international cuisines. What she wishes for on Jalan Kuliner are Mexican and Indian food.

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