We don't understand... let's just smile

Damar Harsanto ,  The Jakarta Post ,  Beijing   |  Thu, 08/14/2008 10:36 AM  |  Sports

As huge numbers of visitors flock to Beijing for the Olympic Games, it is not uncommon for conversations between overseas visitors and local residents to end before they begin.

What is supposed to be a quick and simple conversation -- take for instance when non-Chinese ask for directions or phone recharge vouchers -- may turn out to be a long and complicated exchange. Sometimes the talk draws in passersby, which only makes it noisier.

Does more people talking help? Not at all.

Everybody is aware reaching an understanding is almost impossible with the towering language barrier. The one side knows nothing but English, the other side nothing but Chinese. And, at the end of it all, there is nothing left to do but smile.

A smile is an expression of respect. And it seems it is a universal language spoken here too.

I took a one-hour crash course in Mandarin from a Chinese relative of mine back in Jakarta before leaving for Beijing. I brought along a small list of important words and sentences I should know. I wish I could make my life here easier and my stay more fun.

It worked well in the beginning.

Taxi driver Wang Liang was my first "contact" with a truly Chinese native speaker. I managed to successfully utter my first three sentences. But the real challenge began when he spoke in a flurry of quick sentences. The rest was disaster.

The two-way conversation broke down and we were silent until we arrived at the hotel.

I refused to give in, so I "recruited" my second contact, a receptionist at the hotel who could speak a little English, to enrich my Chinese language vocabulary.

It helped make the conversations a bit longer. I tried ordering a meal in a nearby Chinese fast food eatery.

I ordered a meal I thought was a pork sausage, scallops and a cup of Chinese tea. I felt confident I would get the right items this time, as at least three young and lovely waiters were involved and we shared a laughter together -- although I didn't know what exactly we laughed at.

Then came the food: a plate heaped with fried duck necks and tofu, and a bottle of beer.

Speechless. Still, I rewarded them with a smile.

They smiled too. Perhaps, I thought, they felt they had just performed a very good job.

The evening program on Chinese state-owned TV station CCTV-9 featured a talk show with Dora Bakoyannis, the minister of foreign affairs from the Hellenic Republic, host of the 2004 Olympics in Athens, Greece.

Dora claimed China had made the Games a big success.

"I saw everywhere people smile when I arrived here," she said.

"The Games has made the whole city smile. What a very good message to the world."

Yes, you're darn right, your Excellency, and I think I have a very good reason for that smile.

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