Letter: Rinjani: Majestic, but for how long?

Sat, 09/27/2008 11:55 AM  |  Reader's Forum

Indonesia's second highest volcanic peak -- Gunung Rinjani -- is situated within a beautiful National Park, which compares admirably with anything we have on our earth.

Where do you find a rugged mountain of 3,726 meters, with a crater at 2,000 meters, and growing a young volcano within? The flora and fauna on the slopes are fed by many natural springs.

Moreover, the volcano is considered sacred and serves as a pilgrimage destination. That is probably why New Zealand supported the development of the Rinjani trekking project.

But alarming signs of environmental destruction and ecological imbalance are unmistakable. Trash litters the length of the trekking path. The rest stops are marred by indiscriminate cooking fires left by the climbing groups. I wonder if much nature around these parts will exist in years to come.

Everything seems to be handled amateurishly. For example, the official guides do not seem to have any formal training. Remember, this is a difficult trek -- climbers can fall, first-timers can get heart attacks.

The temperature can drop dramatically to near zero degrees centigrade. There is no way trekking groups can communicate with the base station. The trek leaders do not even carry basic security equipment such as flashlights.

A wind storm kicked up during a recent trek, blowing away one tent. We had to reposition others in high winds. Trekkers could have lost their lives.

Furthermore, weather conditions up the mountain should be tacked at the trek center to know when to discourage summit ascent. People pay for a four-day package but then on the first day up, they find they have to turn back.

And all we get is a laconic answer from trek management: "It's the force of nature". No compensation, no refund, nothing.

Actually the best part of the trekking development project is the four-page Rinjani Trek brochure. Here, scenic beauty, the people, flora and fauna and environmental preservation are clearly described. Little of this can be seen in practice.

A remedy must be put in place.

First, surely there are Indonesian mountain lovers and associations who take pride in their incomparable national jewel.

Second, the project suggests the potential for tourism income for the Lombok region, but it has to be upgraded. Imagine the continuing benefit from visitors from abroad experiencing an ecologically well-managed national heritage site.

Corrections can be made. Train the rangers in waste control. Set up communication systems for safety. Put the rangers in charge of passing their training to the individual guides. These simple fixes could begin right away. And set up a better organized trek package.

I am sure the Rinjani Trek Committee knows they are underperforming and improvements have to made soon. It is too serious a situation to put at risk trekker safety and Indonesian national pride to let this undertaking continue so haphazardly.

HTUN AUNG
Jakarta/Vienna

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Hadrian (not verified) — Tue, 09/30/2008 - 8:16pm

I share all of the concerns of the writer. Yes, this is an important part of Indonesia's national heritage. It deserves much better management than what appears to be receiving at present.

Mount Rinjani National Park has received substantial international assistance in the past from the New Zealand government which was meant to remedy the very problems alluded to by the writer. And I know that good progress was made. However, from this and other recent reports that I have received it is apparent that there has been a lapse of management.

The problems alluded to in Mount Rinjani are not isolated but very much symptomatic of a chronically deficient management confronting most if not all of Indonesia's national parks, many of which are absolute national treasures. However, short of a radical overhaul of management and resources, little or no improvement can be expected; on the contrary, loss of value and image seems likely to continue apace.

I realize that Indonesia has many pressing priorities but the on-going deterioration of it's national parks represents a serious loss of the nation's heritage and potential economic benefits, especially for local people, from well managed nature based tourism. You only need to contrast with that other great mountain of SE Asia, Mount Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysia. Mount Kinabalu is a World Heritage listed, well managed nature park with a robust international tourist industry which reveals just what Indonesia is missing out on and so underscores how serious is the problem with Mount Rinjani and many other of Indonesia's national parks.

The root cause of the management crisis is widely known and therefore the solutions are also known. If Indonesia's national treasures like Mount Rinjani are to be preserved for the benefit of future generations there is an urgent need for remedial action. The writer is commended for bringing the plight of Mount Rinjani to public attention.

Dominik (not verified) — Tue, 09/30/2008 - 7:09pm

I climbed the Gunung Rinjani in 2004 and I had similar experiences:
Litter all along the way, even old batteries near the lake...
Beautiful nature indeed, but way to carelessly treated.

The other aspect is true as well. Since it was my first hike and I didn´t even do too much sports before I was shocked that the strongest part of the group decides when to take a break. Being always a hundred meters behind the group, I came completely exhausted and 15 Minutes later- 15 Minutes to rest less..

Anyway it was a great experience and I finally made it to the top, but hearing my heart beating like a machine gun for hours I was scared to death on the way...

Coming back the hotel-owner held back one of our backpacks but returned after we complained vigorously.

It was the most beautiful place I have seen in Indonesia, so keep it clean!

Dominik, Germany

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