Four Days in West Sumatra

The Jakarta Post -- WEEKENDER | Sun, 11/23/2008 2:24 PM |

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West Sumatra is an enchanted land where varied landscapes of mountains, lakes, beaches and rice fields are a feast for the eye, and the culinary treasures a delight for the taste buds. This four‐day itinerary does not cover all places of interest in the land of the Minangkabau people, but will surely provide a wonderful getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life, Stelly Leks writes.

DAY ONE: Padang – Padangpanjang – Bukittinggi

Start with Lamun Ombak restaurant, not far from the Minangkabau International Airport, which offers a real Padang dining experience – plate after plate of Padang‐style cuisine is laid out on your table, creating an array of colors and flavors. Most local dishes have santan (coconut milk) and chili as their main ingredients.

Along the way to Bukittinggi, in the Padangpanjang area, make a stop at PDIKM – the Center for Documentation and Information on Minangkabau culture, home to the iconic traditional house known as rumah gadang. This long house serves as a museum where visitors can become acquainted with Minangkabau culture, famed for its matrilineal kinship system.

Standing proudly in the town center of Bukittinggi is the famous Jam Gadang – an old Dutch‐built clock tower. This landmark of Bukittinggi overlooks Pasar Atas (Upper Market) – a good place to do some souvenir shopping (check out the huge variety of chips and other snacks) and taste traditional dishes of nasi kapau.

Spend the rest of your evening in Bukittinggi enjoying a traditional Minangkabau cultural performance of lively songs, dances and energetic pencak silat (martial arts) demonstrations at Medan Nan Balinduang on Jl. Lenggogeni. The highlight of the show is the Tari Piring (Plate Dance), which climaxes with the dancers treading on the broken plates.

DAY TWO: Bukittinggi – Tanah Datar – Payakumbuh

The Panorama park, a short walk from the town center of Bukittinggi, features a breathtaking view of Ngarai Sianok (Sianok Canyon). Sometimes referred to as the “grand canyon of Indonesia”, this fertile valley is surrounded by cliffs 150 meters high – a perfect backdrop for Kodak moment.

Top off your day in Bukittinggi with a deliciously spicy meal of itiak lado mudo (green chili duck) and a cup of black coffee at the famed Rumah Makan Ngarai at the bottom of the canyon.
Pandai Sikek village in Tanah Datar regency is a handicraft center for traditional songket weaving and wood carving. Owners of the souvenir shops will show visitors songket woven by hand with gold and silver thread embroidery.

A dramatic view of the steep granite walls is found in Harau Valley in Payakumbuh, about 47 kilometers northeast of Bukittinggi. A nature reserve, the valley offers many opportunities for outdoor activities, including rock climbing, trekking and visiting one of its waterfalls.

DAY THREE: Solok via Singkarak Lake – Padang

Between Solok and Tanah Datar regencies, just off the main Trans-Sumatra highway, lies the widest lake in West Sumatra, Singkarak. The lake is home to an endemic species of small fish called ikan bilih, an important commodity in the area. Although Singkarak is not as well-known as the province’s Lake Maninjau, it is nevertheless a beautiful, quiet spot to relax and take a dip.

Later, take a stroll through Padang’s evocative Chinatown (check out the old Dutch buildings near the wharf) and sample the delights of Padang food with hints of Chinese influence in Rumah Makan Pagi Sore. As you enter the restaurant, the waiter will begin filling small plates with dishes from the glass display. In less than five minutes, your table will be groaning under the weight of plates of tempting food.

DAY FOUR: Sikuai Island

About a 30-minute boat ride from Padang’s harbor lies the secluded Sikuai Island. Spend all day swimming, snorkeling, walking the trails or simply relaxing on the white sand beach working on your tan.

It is no wonder migrants from Minang never stop longing for their kampung halaman (native land), as expressed in their folk song “Kampuang nan jauh di mato” (The Distant Hamlet). You too will want to go back again and again to explore all it has to offer.

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