Happy chef from hunting rabbits to cooking scallops

Rhiannon Horrel, ,  The Jakarta Post, ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 02/08/2009 11:24 AM  |  On the Town

A new Italian chef has joined Jakarta's bustling culinary industry to offer his expertise and rich life experience to Italian food lovers.

Scusa is the new home for chef Antonio Massagli who is originally from Lucca, a small town in Italy. Massagli joined the team in December and is busy placing his Tuscan touch on the restaurant. "There is no greater satisfaction than cooking - every day is different and it is a way to express yourself. It is amazing," Massagli says.

Poised to introduce a new menu, he has been working on it for about a month and says he will change about 75 percent of what is currently served. "The right balance is important. The new menu will have 60 percent fish and 40 percent meat because this is a hot country; the food needs to be light."

Located on the second floor of the Intercontinental Hotel, Scusa is a dark and mysterious find. With modern backlighting and elegance, the seating is spacious and the staff friendly. Massagli explains that the restaurant's interior needs to be in contrast with the food.

"The food must be colorful, fresh and interactive," Massagli says, adding that he likes the plates to have a touch of green. The 34-year-old now has 20 years of experience under his belt and heads a team of twelve chefs at Scusa. When questioned about his work history, he laughs heartily and asks: "Do we have time?"

He is indeed a globe-trotter, having visited and worked in numerous destinations. "I have not been to Australia or New Zealand for one reason - they tell me it is a wonderful place, and that if I went there, I wouldn't want to come back!"

But he is content for now and spends about two years each with different restaurants. "But Singapore is my second home - I worked there for about five a half years. I like Singapore a lot; my wife is from Singapore."

Massagli has an eye for detail and explains the unconscious symbolism within a plate of food: "With the garnish, it cannot cross over each other - that is a negative symbol. If a customer sees that on their plate, it says to them *Stop, do not go any further'. If the garnish is parallel, it means please continue in this direction."

A selection of his signature dishes displays quality natural ingredients. A trio of colorful sea scallops is served, with a base of woven zucchini. The fish roe, Massagli says, is inspired by the Japanese as their use of color is outstanding. "The perfect dish would have Japanese color, French presentation and Italian flavor!" he laughs.

As an appetizer, pan-seared marinated king prawns are served with squid ink emulsions. Although unusual and possibly unappealing, it works surprisingly well. A bottle of 2006 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge cabernet sauvignon is matched well to the main dish, an oven-baked lamb rack coated in breadcrumbs. Scusa's appetizers range from Rp 70,000 to Rp 210,000 (US$6-18) and mains cost between Rp 95,000 and Rp 725,000.

"I follow the trend; I am not a trend setter. I am down to earth - I just like to have good simple food, respect the flavor as much as I can and just put two or three flavors together and that is it."

Massagli has plans to grow his own rosemary and sage that he can bring to work and use in the kitchen. "When you cook, the secret is to be happy. When you are happy, the food is happy."

Scusa

Intercontinental Hotel
Mid Plaza
Jl. Jend Sudirman kav 10-11
Jakarta

Open for lunch Mon-Fri,
Sun 11.30-2.30pm

Open for dinner seven days
6-10.30pm
Ph: (021) 251 0888

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