Nothing But Noodles

The Jakarta Post - WEEKENDER   |  Thu, 02/26/2009 5:02 PM  |  Street Eats

Rice might be the staple food for most Indonesians, but noodles come a close second. Whether boiled or fried, noodles have become a signature dish among Indonesians everywhere. Different regions boast their own way of serving them, including Sumatra, whose noodle dishes are as vibrant as the culture that celebrates them. Maggie Tiojakin grabs her chopsticks for a taste.

All around the world, noodles go by various names: lo mein, chow mein, nudel, nodus, soba, udon, mee pok, ramen, not including the 350 variants of pasta. Some say the Chinese invented noodles, while others point west to a region known for its marinara sauce and pizza dough. In 2005, what is believed to be the oldest noodle was discovered along the Yellow River in China. No less than 4,000 years old, it is speculated to have been made out of foxtail and broomcorn millet.

Supposedly, at some point in those 4,000 years, the dish made a historic culture-cross to other parts of the world; Sumatra was one of them.

Kelapa Gading, known among locals as “the largest food district”, hosts some of the most popular noodle stalls in and around greater Jakarta. Sumatran noodle dishes are always a favorite.

Enjoy!

Bakmi Aloy (Palembang)

Palembang noodles come in notoriously large portions with various toppings that include mushrooms, char siu (fried pork), minced meat, chicken and vegetables. Native Palembangans call their noodle dish a “generous treat” and it is the second most popular dish after pempek (fish cakes).The noodles can be a bit chewy, depending on the type you want: thin, wide or bulky. Served in a bowl or plate, the dish incorporates a significant amount of soy sauce and oil, which is the trademark of any Palembang dish. Although the large portion makes it unlikely you’ll ask for seconds in a single seating, it’s guaranteed that noodle lovers will come back for more in their second, third and hundredth visit. Notable side dishes include fried fish balls, wontons, fish cakes and broiled vegetables (on request). Another thing you will appreciate is the flexibility with which you can create your own noodle dish according to your individual taste and needs.

Jl. Kelapa Kopyor Raya Blok M 1 #7
Kelapa Gading Mal 5, Third Floor at Eat & Eat
Phone: 021-450-8646 (delivery)


Bakmi Apin (Bangka)

The small island on the southern board of the South China Sea, set apart from the Sumatra mainland by the Bangka Strait, has been referred to as a “tiny heaven” for food lovers. The beaches are also great, of course. But nothing quite beats the view of the abundant mom-and-pop restaurants serving regional delicacies such as pempek (fish cakes), lempah (turmeric soup), honey-roasted pork and noodles. Flat-stripped and dry, Bangka noodles are customarily simple in preparation, combining ingredients such as green onion, minced meat and fried wonton skins. A “special” noodle dish is a regular dish with additional red pork cuts and extra wonton skins, but the taste is no less enjoyable than other dishes that boast a more extravagant outlook. Because of the mixed wonton skins, Bangka’s noodle dish as a whole has a rather crunchy texture, although it is less salty because it uses soy sauce moderately. Notable side dishes include shiaw may (pork meat), wonton soup and otak-otak (fish paste).

Jl. Bulevar Raya BI, Blok TT2 #4
Phone: 021-453-1943 (delivery)

Kong’s Curly Noodles (Pematangsiantar)

The Kong family of North Sumatra’s Pematangsiantar claims to be the pioneers who made the first curly noodles in Indonesia, first setting up shop in 1954. In 1976, the family opened their first Jakarta outlet in Pluit. Then, in 2003, they opened their second restaurant outlet in Kelapa Gading, which has built a reputation for offering the “true curly noodles”. Unlike Bangka and Palembang noodles, Pematangsiantar noodle dishes do not use any soy sauce, which is why they are paler than the other two. But make no mistake: when it comes to taste they are just as mouthwatering as Palembang’s rich toppings and Bangka’s crunchy texture. As the name suggests, Kong’s noodles are indeed curly, yet they are not as chewy as you might expect. Served with slices of chicken or pork, a regular portion comes with a bowl of wonton soup. Other types of noodles are also available, such as bee-hoon and kway tiaw. Notable side dishes include fishball sticks, seafood sticks, homemade prawn rolls and steamed veggies.

Jl. Bulevar Barat Raya I, Blok VG 2 #12
No delivery service yet.

+ Photos by Bonita Suraputra

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