Dining al fresco in Kemang takes on a special fragrance

Simon Marcus Gower ,  Contributor ,  Jakarta   |  Sat, 05/16/2009 2:05 PM  |  Lifestyle

No matter how much time you spend stuck in the narrow and congested streets of Kemang, you could still miss the Kemang Food Festival.

This would be a shame, considering it offers a meeting and dining area where you can enjoy a good range of food in a relaxed and surprisingly fragrant atmosphere.

The intensity in Kemang and the hubbub that surrounds the vicinity of the Grand Kemang Hotel has to be negotiated first, which can be quite a challenge in itself. The Kemang area is well reputed for its cafes and restaurants and so traffic is too heavy for these narrow roadways.

Soon enough, though, a row of boutique shops may be seen on the right-hand side of the road.

Some of these boutique-type shops are also immediately opposite the Kemang Food Festival area, or as it is more commonly called, Kemang Food Fest.

The entrance to this small community of cafes is via two unassuming alleyways but these alleyways seem to concentrate the smells of the Food Festival area - smells in a mixture simultaneously fragrant and mouth-wateringly enticing. The smell of food being cooked and served to diners entices but there is more in these aromas than food alone.

A feature of Kemang Food Festival is the number of shishas that are available for hire. The shisha (or hookah, as it is also known - shisha actually comes from the Persian word shishe, meaning glass) is a glass-bottomed water pipe for smoking. Through indirect heat and water filtration, the smoker of a shisha can inhale smoke via a system of tubes.

Those who hire shishas here are quick to point out that shisha smoking here is neither dangerous nor addictive. Even though the "smoker" is inhaling, via a hose, air that has been pulled through smoldering charcoal before bubbling up through the water in the glass and piping, there is no tobacco involved in this process.

All this strongly refutes notions of dangerous tobacco smoke, with one of the users claiming that it is actually good for the health in that it is therapeutic and relaxing.

The smoke itself has a rather fruity and herbal nature, with flavors including apple, cherry, strawberry, banana, melon and even cappuccino. The sweet fragrances of these herbal-type shishas scent the air here.

But those who want solid sustenance can take heart from the equally detectable aromas of food from a diverse range of food to satisfy most tastes. Dim Sum is popular here, Iranian food a little less so, but local Indonesian specialties are among the favorite dishes to be had here.

Particularly good is the range of nasi bakar available (rice grilled in banana leaf). Nasi goreng meluduk - fried rice wrapped in an omelet -can be quite delicious too; the name of another local favorite might be a little misle ading, but nonetheless enjoyable - fried rice in which the spices are served up separately is known as nasi goreng gila, which could be literally translated as "crazy fried rice".

Cuisine a little more Westernized cuisine is also available. This is particularly the case at the stylish Black and White Caf*, which offers pizzas and pastries, including Danishes, croissants and puff pastries, that are all very well prepared and served. Among the caf*'s lighter snacks is popcorn, offered buttered, or with caramel or even Cheddar cheese flavoring. The Black and White Caf* is one of the few premises here with a dining area separate from the other food sellers.

The central area of Kemang Food Festival is covered by a large overarching semi-circular canopy, which creates an outdoor dining experience that really puts the festival into the food. The communal dining area beneath the canopy is taken up by large circular tables; when full, there is an exciting hubbub and buzz about the place.

And it does get full: Kemang Food Festival is a popular meeting place and nightspot, thanks to its spacious outdoor eating area and extensive range of relatively inexpensive food. Waiters hurry between tables, taking and delivering orders, and the music, while modern, popular and upbeat, is never too loud to be disturbing.

What's more, for those out in the wee hours, parts of it are open 24 hours.

Within Kemang itself, the Kemang Food Festival is centrally located and is within easy walking distance of other attractions.

Although the main event of the food court is a little hidden away, as the place does not look out onto Kemang Raya and so directly attract passers-by who may not be familiar with it, it is worth looking out for. The sense of community, fun and enjoyment of social dining is as tangible as the sweet and savory aromas in the air.

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