A lesson carved in stone

Retno K. Djojo ,  Contributor ,  Malang   |  Fri, 06/05/2009 1:39 PM  |  Java Brew

Photo by Retno K. Djojo

At Kidal temple, a trio of reliefs reveals that the popular Javanese cleansing ritual Ruwatan was a favorite of ancient kings, queens and even deities.

The practice of Ruwatan - the spiritual purging of a problem in a person's life, whether physical or psychological - is believed to smooth the passage of life both on earth and in the hereafter.

Those who undergo the ritual report feeling the benefits of soothing psychological effects, knowing that the tension in their life has been washed away.

What these adherents may not realize is that the enjoyment of these benefits has a long and regal history, as shown in Kidal temple.

The temple, located in Rejo Kidal hamlet, 24 kilometers southeast of the East Java town of Malang, is home to three reliefs that tell of the quest of Garudeya - the mythical bird Garuda - to obtain holy water to free his foster mother, the goddess Winata, from slavery.

The relief panel on the eastern side of the foot of the temple shows Garuda carrying a jug of holy water that he took from the abode of the gods at Mt. Mahameru.

Before he was allowed to carry off the jug with its precious contents, Garuda had to promise to become the bearer of Lord Vishnu. With the well-being of his mother his prime concern, Garuda accepted the deal.

One of the other panels shows Garuda carrying his mother to freedom and the other depicts Garuda standing on top three dragons. These two panels have cracks and are not clearly visible.

Kidal temple was built in 1248 to commemorate the demise of King Anusapati, the second ruler of the Singasari kingdom. Constructed on a square base measuring 8.3 meters on each side, and standing 12.4 meters high, the temple is distinguished from the plumper, more rounded temples of Central Java by its slender body.

When viewed from the terrace behind the temple gate, Kidal, its black andesite bathed in the early morning sun, retains a mystical aura. Its tapering structure topped with a high, tiered roof is a jewel of ancient architecture.

Like other temples in East Java, Kidal is guarded by an impressive monster's head, or Kala, complete with bulging eyes and crooked fangs. According to old Javanese legends, a Kala head mounted above the entrance to the temple chamber will keep evildoers and troublemakers at bay.

The temple's elegant staircase is also guarded, by two dragonheads, indicating a cultural blend of Hinduism and Buddhism. During his reign, Anusapati succeeded in persuading followers of the two religions to cooperate in order to achieve peace and harmony in the area.

Inside the small temple chamber are Yoni and Lingga statues, which are Hindu symbols of fertility. The pedestal on which the two statues rest covers a pit 9 meters deep, which is believed to hold the ashes and some bones of King Anusapati.

Local people who have a deep devotion to this historic temple pay regular visits to place incense and flower offerings at the foot of the Yoni and Lingga statues.

They pray for guidance and blessings or ask for divine help in dealing with the trials and tribulations of everyday life.

Historical records tell us that, before his death, Anusapati requested that his memorial temple be adorned with a carving depicting the story of Garuda, because of Anusapati's own devotion to his mother, Ken Dedes.

Aware of the suffering his mother had to bear during her lifetime, the king, like the god, wanted to do everything in his power to relieve his mother from the heavy psychological burden brought upon her by unwanted circumstances and to replace her suffering with eternal happiness in the afterlife.

Anusapati's devotion to his mother also provides an important educational message: Always respect your mother.

Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles was the first European to report the existence of this ancient temple, making a note of it in his journal The History of Java, published in 1817.

Thanks to restoration work, the most recent in 1990, the temple now sits at the center of a park lined with trees and fenced off from the adjacent residential compound.

While casting a last glance at this beautiful, slender temple, silhouetted against the glossy morning sun, thoughts went out to all who have contributed to the restoration of this piece of history, which is a fine example of East Java's temple architecture.

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