Jember artisans enjoy boosted batik drive

Luthfiana Mahmudah ,  The Jakarta Post ,  Jember   |  Sat, 06/27/2009 11:01 AM  |  The Archipelago

Sumberjambe, located 45 kilometers from Jember, East, Java, is home to at least 150 batik makers working under the auspices of three large-scale batik producers - UD Purnama, UD Pakem Sari and UD Bintang Timur.

The Jakarta Post recently visited the home of UD Bintang Timur's owner, Mawardi, who oversees 50 batik makers, to observe the Sumberjambe batik-making process.

"The history of traditional batik in Sumberjambe village began during the Dutch colonial era," Mawardi said.

"The Dutch brought residents from Madura to the coffee and cacao plantations at the foot of Mount Raung, now called Sumberjambe village, in 1880. While the men tended to the crops, the womenfolk use up their free time making batik.

"Our ancestors were already making batik on Madura. We initially produced batik here under the orders of the Dutch."

Sumberjambe batik has its roots in Madura. However, along with development and sociocultural shifts, the batik makers have gradually endowed the batik with its own character. "Sumberjambe batik is neither Javanese nor Maduran," Mawardi said.

The batik made by the early generations of Sumberjambe batik makers had only two basic colors - black and brown - and used motifs such as lines, kabung (young palm fruit), broken stones, palm frond brooms and ladders.

The tobacco leaf motif began appearing along with the introduction of the commodity to Sumberjambe village, Mawardi said. Batik makers then began applying new and vibrant colors, like green, red, yellow and blue.

The Jember regency administration patented the motif this year under the name of lahbako, from the Indonesian word mengolah tembakau, or tobacco processing.

Despite its long history, this batik is not yet widely known. Many, if not most Jember residents, are unfamiliar with the name, despite its quality and price, comparable to batik from other cities.

Sumberjambe hand-drawn batik fabric measuring 2 meters long sells for Rp 85,000 to Rp 150,000, while printed batik fabric is offered for between Rp 50,000 and Rp 80,000. The price of silk batik fabric ranges from Rp 150,000 to Rp 300,000.

Mawardi said the main obstacle faced by Sumberjambe batik producers was weak marketing, which was only done by word of mouth.

"Other drawbacks include limited capital, design and quality," he added. "Sumberjambe batik is on the verge of disappearing due to the negative aspects. Batik-making is no longer an everyday activity, but a seasonal one. We make batik only when there are orders.

"We're afraid we'll lose if we don't get orders. We have just barely enough capital, so we rely greatly on down payments from customers to buy our material."

Sumberjambe batik enjoyed greater popularity during former regent Samsul Hadi Siswoyo's term from 2003 to 2005, when all civil servants were required to wear the batik. However, the policy ended with the change in leadership.

Fresh winds blew again when this year the Jember administration patented the Sumberjambe batik motif as the regency's very own.

Various efforts were then made by the administration to promote the batik. Head of the Jember Family Welfare Movement, Sri Wahyuni Djalal, also joined in the drive by designing a batik motif. The local cooperatives office later followed suit by urging every government agency in Jember to use the Sumberjambe batik as a uniform.

During the Visit Jember Month this year, one of the highlights was Sumberjambe batik. During the provincial Koran recital contest this year, souvenirs in the form of Sumberjambe batik will be handed out.

The campaign has apparently been effective, not only for batik producers, but also evident from the improved well-being of batik makers such as Sumiyati, 31.

"We've had orders coming in for four months now, and I'm making batik every day," she said while working on a fabric designed by Sri Wahyuni.

Sumiyati has been making batik since she was elementary school, and currently gets Rp 15,000 to Rp 30,000 for each piece of fabric.

"I'm paid according to the intricacy," she added.

She can finish nine pieces of batik a week and earn Rp 200,000, a significant sum of money for her, considering her husband is a farmhand. When there is no work, like now, he harvests grass.

Sustained orders for batik mean a lot for Sumiyati and other batik makers to make ends meet.

"Hopefully many orders will continue to come, just like now," she said.

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