A summertime sampling of Copenhagen

Stevie Emilia ,  The Jakarta Post ,  Copenhagen   |  Sun, 06/28/2009 11:34 AM  |  Travel

Some cities are destined to win you over the minute you lay eyes on them and Copenhagen in the summer time is definitely one of them.

This city might be one of Europe's oldest and most dynamic capitals, yet its size lets you explore it at a leisurely pace, as distances between sites are tolerable and most places can be reached on foot. With friendly weather on our side, we did exactly that.

Denmark's monarchy is one of the oldest in the world, and the Danish kings have left their marks across the city, with Rosenborg Castle, the Borsen (the Stock Exchange) and the Rundet*rn (the Round Tower) - all the impressive creations of King Christian IV (1577-1648).

In Copenhagen, people can still witness the daily changing of the guard by the Danish Royal Life Guard at the Amalienborg Palace, the residence of Queen Margrethe II.

The procession, which offers a festive display of military precision and tradition that dates back to 1658, is a delightful reflection of Danish cultural heritage.

Despite its long history, Copenhagen is a modern metropolis, but with a difference - there are no intimidating skyscrapers or traffic jams in sight. Many people bike in the city, some taking their children along with them.

At this time of the year, there's a relaxing atmosphere as the Danes enjoy the sun with their friends and families in the city's many parks, hang out listening to jazz by street musicians or sip beers in the cozy cafes and restaurants along the side streets and canals until dark finally falls close to midnight.

Our trip took us to Nyhavn, one of the most idyllic spots in Copenhagen, which offers a unique waterside dining experience, day and night, while enjoying the sun and the sight of the old moored ships.

Nyhavn is also one of the places where visitors can hop on a boat and join a canal tour around the city.

Although its name literally translates as "New Harbor", Nyhavn has a long history.

The harbor was built at the initiative of King Christian back in 1671-1673 as a manmade canal to attract traffic and commerce to the city and allow merchants to build their houses along the wharves.

Soon, Nyhavn prospered, with ships arriving with their cargo and turning the harbor into a lively port. Even the world famous fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen lived in no fewer than three different addresses by the canal.

"Now, the places along the canals are worth a fortune," said Ronny, the canal tour guide.

The one-hour tour gave us a glimpse of the city's different faces: ancient and modern.

As the boat glided calmly along the water, we could view the city's historical buildings and modern architectural landmarks, from the Den Sorte Diamant (the Black Diamond) - an extension to the Royal Danish Library - to the Royal Danish Playhouse.

The tour also brought us close to Copenhagen's tourist icon, The Little Mermaid. Sitting quietly on a granite boulder, the sculpture was created by Edwad Eriksen inspired by the fairytale by Hans Christian Andersen.

"Next year, she will be on her first-ever trip abroad to China," Ronny said.

The sculpture has been chosen to be the figurehead for the Denmark pavilion at the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. In its place during its trip to China from April to November next year will be a video installation of her odyssey by Ai Weiwei, the Chinese artist who designed the Beijing Olympic Stadium.

"I guess we're lucky to be able to see her now," said a tour participant.

The tour was only one part of our exploration of this elegant city.

Although most shops were closed over the weekend, we decided to venture into Europe's longest pedestrian street Stroget, which winds its way through Copenhagen's old inner city.

Lined with shops and boutiques offering fashion, jewelry, Danish's renowned design items as well as the city's leading department store Illum and flagship stores of international fashion houses, the shopping district gets more interesting if you venture down the narrow passageways and courtyards.

Hidden along the alleys are picturesque and elegant shopping arcades showcasing all sorts of things, from high-quality Danish handicrafts through to stylish cafes and restaurants, serving cold wine or beer along with the city's signature fresh, hand-peeled fjord shrimp or smorrebrod (open sandwiches).

The range of quality handicrafts and design items on display is no surprise in a nation known for its simplicity, elegance and functionality.

The country is home to more than 800 large and small museums, which makes it home to many masterpieces, waiting to be discovered.

The Danish National Gallery, situated close to the Rosenborg Castle, is home to masterpieces by renowned masters such as Matisse, Picasso, Rubens and Rembrandt. Those curious about the history of the Danes - from the first Ice Age and the Vikings' gold and silver hoards to the present day - can visit the National Museum in the Prince's Palace. The buildings themselves are worth a look, as the architecture of many of the museums is a marriage of old and new.

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is no exception.

Located in the heart of the city, next to the Tivoli Gardens, this museum was founded by brewer Carl Jacobsen in 1888. It consists of four distinct buildings, designed by three different architects, and is home to rich and diverse treasures, and counts works by masters such as Monet, Degas and Van Gogh.

There, you can stand face to face with 35 works by Rodin and more than 40 works by Paul Gauguin, including his paintings, wood reliefs and rare ceramic works.

Those works might leave you speechless with admiration.

And in that quiet, it's time to head back home. Dark finally starts to blanket the land of midnight sun but the picture-perfect memory remains fresh in the mind's eye.

Tips
Getting around is easy and fast, with taxi, bus, metro and train offering convenient transfer to everywhere. If you're taking taxi, though, it is better to have the address written in Danish just in case.
Renting a bike is another great way to explore the city - and it costs nothing. During summer, City Bikes are available at some 110 racks across the city, available for use for a DKK20 deposit. When you return the bike to any rack, you get your deposit back. See www.bycyklen.dk.
Changing money is easy, but most money changers and banks take a commission.
Credit cards are honored in most places but many supermarkets and some shops do not accept international credit cards.
When shopping tax free, you can have between 13 and 19 percent of the purchase amount refunded. All you have to do is ask for a Global Refund Cheque when spending a minimum of DKK300/ 40 euro in one store in one day and get the cheque stamped by customs before leaving the country.

 

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