Oka’s Essentials
WEEKENDER | Fri, 07/24/2009 5:26 PM |
Inspired by the likes of McQueen and Gaultier, Oka Diputra started his eponymous fashion line after he refashioned hand-me-downs from his brothers and dropped out of college. Today he is not only one of the most promising Indonesian designers but has also redefined the meaning of the “rich” look. Nikeeta Lakhiani finds out just what makes this Bali-based designer tick.
Favorite color for this season?
I would say off-white.
Why pick Bali out of all places in Indonesia? Why not Jakarta?
I love my lifestyle. I’m not going to give up my lifestyle just because I want to be known as a designer or to be more prosperous. Bali is my life and it suits me very well.
Where did you study fashion?
I never did. My background is actually graphic design. I studied for three years and decided I’d had enough of it and then started to pursue other careers, including journalism.
What have you written for?
I think it still exists; it’s called Bali Tourist Guide. It’s basically a newspaper for tourists and it’s in English. I wrote during 1983 and 1984.
The Venus wrap dress you designed was inspired by a flower that eats insects. What other aspects of nature inspire you?
Exotic animals that you cannot see with the naked eye. I love scuba diving and I try to go as often as I can. Down there I see a myriad of creatures but you cannot see them until you get face to face with them. Like sea slugs, beetle flies.
If you could dress Michelle Obama for a night, what would she be wearing?
She looks good in odd colors like green. I mean, green is a very different color to wear but I can see her in it – all shades of green. I would dress her in a flowing long gown. She can’t do Jackie style because it’s been done. She can’t do First Lady, so I think what fits her is “glamour”. She may be a very simple person so I think probably understated glamour – nothing too in-your-face.
What’s your vision?
To eventually have a shop in Toulouse, France. I have a certain affinity with the French culture. I’d like to eventually teach fashion in Bali when I’m retired.
When you are developing each collection, what inspires your choice of silhouette?
To be precise, my environment inspires me greatly. I have a close affinity with Asia, being Asian myself.
What inspired your collection nuptiale (bridal collection)?
Nagging customers! They keep asking me, “When are you going to launch your bridal collection?” I do not have the patience or inclination to deal with customers on a one-to- one basis because they’re very demanding and it’s a wedding, hence you know how girls want it to be – just perfect.
Like couture?
It’s more demanding than that because you deal with something very personal and therefore the bride organizes the directions herself, so they’re very demanding, nervous and easily agitated. I cannot handle that side of the business.
The Leia gown you designed, was it for somebody?
Princess Leia inspired it. It was part of my Ego project. I have business projects and Ego projects – where I create whatever I like and it doesn’t matter whether it sells or has good reviews.
Who are your main clients – tourists or locals?
I would say visitors because many of them are business travelers; 70 percent visitors and 30 percent locals.
How do you cater to sizing?
It’s easy for me. My designs are cleverly designed clothes. They fit a wide range of sizes. One particular dress would fit four or five different sizes. I believe in using knots instead of zippers. Using knots makes it more versatile in terms of sizes. For example, the Leia dress looks slim but when you loosen the knots, it’s quite big. I’ve used hand-woven silk from Vietnam. I love it because it’s hand-woven and it’s got mistakes. It’s got character.
Do you always source your fabrics from abroad?
Yes, it’s my excuse to travel (Laughs).
Who has supported your work throughout the years?
Mostly my staff I would say. Without them I don’t think I could’ve gotten where I am today. But mostly my chief dressmaker but he’s dead now. But, of course, my customers, too.
How do you feel when someone copies your design?
People can never copy the exact design. I used to be very angry, like pulling-my-hair mad, but I take it as a compliment now. I mean it must be good if people want to copy it.
How do you feel when you have completed a collection?
Relieved!
Any celebrities ever visited your store?
Mr. Kenzo bought one of my shirts. That was the first time I felt like I was a good designer. It was unbelievable.
If you could collaborate with one high-street label, which would it be and why?
Definitely H&M. They have reached so many people and they have this, what I call, fun and not taking themselves too seriously way of doing business.
What sort of clothes would you design for them?
Definitely something distinctively Asian but still urban – Asian fabrics and cuts – still something you can wear out to a party with your friends.
Do you send out a message through your clothes?
I don’t take fashion too seriously. Fashion for me is not political. If other people want to do it by all means why not, but with my own design, there’s no point but to look and feel fabulous.
Favorite color for this season?
I would say off-white.
Why pick Bali out of all places in Indonesia? Why not Jakarta?
I love my lifestyle. I’m not going to give up my lifestyle just because I want to be known as a designer or to be more prosperous. Bali is my life and it suits me very well.
Where did you study fashion?
I never did. My background is actually graphic design. I studied for three years and decided I’d had enough of it and then started to pursue other careers, including journalism.
What have you written for?
I think it still exists; it’s called Bali Tourist Guide. It’s basically a newspaper for tourists and it’s in English. I wrote during 1983 and 1984.
The Venus wrap dress you designed was inspired by a flower that eats insects. What other aspects of nature inspire you?
Exotic animals that you cannot see with the naked eye. I love scuba diving and I try to go as often as I can. Down there I see a myriad of creatures but you cannot see them until you get face to face with them. Like sea slugs, beetle flies.
If you could dress Michelle Obama for a night, what would she be wearing?
She looks good in odd colors like green. I mean, green is a very different color to wear but I can see her in it – all shades of green. I would dress her in a flowing long gown. She can’t do Jackie style because it’s been done. She can’t do First Lady, so I think what fits her is “glamour”. She may be a very simple person so I think probably understated glamour – nothing too in-your-face.
What’s your vision?
To eventually have a shop in Toulouse, France. I have a certain affinity with the French culture. I’d like to eventually teach fashion in Bali when I’m retired.
When you are developing each collection, what inspires your choice of silhouette?
To be precise, my environment inspires me greatly. I have a close affinity with Asia, being Asian myself.
What inspired your collection nuptiale (bridal collection)?
Nagging customers! They keep asking me, “When are you going to launch your bridal collection?” I do not have the patience or inclination to deal with customers on a one-to- one basis because they’re very demanding and it’s a wedding, hence you know how girls want it to be – just perfect.
Like couture?
It’s more demanding than that because you deal with something very personal and therefore the bride organizes the directions herself, so they’re very demanding, nervous and easily agitated. I cannot handle that side of the business.
The Leia gown you designed, was it for somebody?
Princess Leia inspired it. It was part of my Ego project. I have business projects and Ego projects – where I create whatever I like and it doesn’t matter whether it sells or has good reviews.
Who are your main clients – tourists or locals?
I would say visitors because many of them are business travelers; 70 percent visitors and 30 percent locals.
How do you cater to sizing?
It’s easy for me. My designs are cleverly designed clothes. They fit a wide range of sizes. One particular dress would fit four or five different sizes. I believe in using knots instead of zippers. Using knots makes it more versatile in terms of sizes. For example, the Leia dress looks slim but when you loosen the knots, it’s quite big. I’ve used hand-woven silk from Vietnam. I love it because it’s hand-woven and it’s got mistakes. It’s got character.
Do you always source your fabrics from abroad?
Yes, it’s my excuse to travel (Laughs).
Who has supported your work throughout the years?
Mostly my staff I would say. Without them I don’t think I could’ve gotten where I am today. But mostly my chief dressmaker but he’s dead now. But, of course, my customers, too.
How do you feel when someone copies your design?
People can never copy the exact design. I used to be very angry, like pulling-my-hair mad, but I take it as a compliment now. I mean it must be good if people want to copy it.
How do you feel when you have completed a collection?
Relieved!
Any celebrities ever visited your store?
Mr. Kenzo bought one of my shirts. That was the first time I felt like I was a good designer. It was unbelievable.
If you could collaborate with one high-street label, which would it be and why?
Definitely H&M. They have reached so many people and they have this, what I call, fun and not taking themselves too seriously way of doing business.
What sort of clothes would you design for them?
Definitely something distinctively Asian but still urban – Asian fabrics and cuts – still something you can wear out to a party with your friends.
Do you send out a message through your clothes?
I don’t take fashion too seriously. Fashion for me is not political. If other people want to do it by all means why not, but with my own design, there’s no point but to look and feel fabulous.
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