By Suryatini N Ganie
Banten, Java's westernmost region, is a relatively new province but it has a long history of famous kingdoms. Today, the wild waves off the province's southern coast, which can get as high as two-story buildings, are very interesting not only for surfers but also for adventurous culinary experts.
The further west we head, the more interesting the coastline gets.
From dawn to about 6 a.m., the small fishing harbor of Binuangeun on the westernmost tip of Java is full of action with the daily fish auction; many a fish ends its marine life in a large keranjang ikan or fish container, which the buyer transports to large cities. including Jakarta.
When I asked somebody next to me what kinds of fishes are sold, he answered vaguely with "any kind"; certainly, it seemed any kind of fish was available, onlookers were very interested in the regional fish catch.
One of our important encounters, though, on that southern Banten beach was with the baby sharks a guard brought us to put on the grill. He marinated the sharks with lots of lime juice, chili and salt for some hours. It was a "sharky" meal with lots of stories of the South Banten beaches bordering the mystical Indian Ocean.
The "bite of baby sharks" that evening, savored next to a fire of coconut charcoal, was not bad as we had expected it to be; rather, it went surprisingly well with the baguettes our guests brought. The guard kindly offered some Banten delicacies, grilling local red sweet potatoes, which are really very sweet and flavorsome.
During all the years we went to Banten's south coast, the cuisine remained the same very simple fare. Other fish suitable for our spices and put into the marinade of lime juice, chilies and salt are, for example, snapper, tuna, layur (flat, long fish that are made into salted fish or freshly fried), small kembung or chub mackerel and many more.
Last but not least, rather upmarket is the ikan cucut martil or the hammer shark (Sphyrna blochii), which is a carnivorous creature that can reach a length of 4 meters. The hammer shark is a rather easygoing swimmer and feels equally at home in deep waters, shallow waters or even deep rivers.
The hammer shark is usually caught for its fins to be made into that delicious but expensive - and controversial - shark fin soup, Chinese style. Well, better not meet him at Banten's beautiful beaches; just let the brave and experienced Banten fishermen take care of him!
Back from fish markets after this adventurous fare, we went to visit friends who maintain a traditional Banten lifestyle in their kitchen and still cherish dishes of yesteryear, the recipes passed down by women to their daughters and granddaughters; in such homes, food is still made for ceremonies such as traditional weddings.
One ceremony still very often celebrated is the haircutting ceremony for a newborn baby on the 40th day after its birth. Unlike in Javanese or Sundanese societies, the haircutting ceremony is held on the 40th day and not before, because normally the mother will already have regained her strength after the birth.
If the baby is a girl, many spices, cooking ingredients and fruit such as bananas are set on display for the sajen (ceremonial serving) as a symbol of plenty. As the people are predominantly Muslim, for the haircutting ceremony the newborn is placed on five kinds of cloth symbolizing the Subuh, Dzuhur, Ashar, Maghrib and Isya prayers that Muslims perform daily.
The menu at the event will be a special one, because normally a goat is slaughtered, its meat used for various dishes. The goat's offal is cooked into a dish called asakan (literally "cooked ingredients"). The asakan has a special method for preparation and is flavored with very pungent spices known as angeun lada in the Sundanese language. Banten's most important herb at the asakan is the daun walang, a rather pungent herb often found growing wild in Banten. A similar herb is the salam koja or curry leaf.
For a well-made asakan, the offal, especially the intestines, have to be treated carefully so that the flavor will be rich and not rancid. Generally, an asakan requires more time to make than to consume.
But for more adventurous gourmets, herewith a recipe from Banten's kitchen called "Brengkes Ikan Hiu" or grilled baby shark wrapped in banana leaves. Cut 500 g clean baby shark. Grind 50 g shallots, 15 g cloves garlic, 40 g red chilies, and * tsp terasi (shrimp paste) into a seasoning paste. Fry until aromatic. Pour in 100 ml coconut milk and season with 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp granulated sugar; continue cooking for some minutes. Remove from flame and divide into four portions. Place in a banana leaf 1 slice of baby shark and 1 portion of the spice mixture. Wrap and secure with toothpick. Grill until done. Makes 4 portions.
