Dublin Delights

Compared to neighboring European capitals such as London or Paris, both just a short flight away, Dublin is an unusual pick for international travelers. However, the last several years have seen remarkable changes in and around the capital as it picks up the pace to become the next top destination in Europe, if not the world. Maggie Tiojakin pays a visit.

Four days is nowhere near enough time to get to know anything, much less understand it. But sometimes, with the right guide and company, four days just about does it to explore and discover all the important things that make a city what it is. Dublin may be a small city size-wise, but a quick stroll along Main Street will take you back into history.

Perhaps the best part about exploring Dublin is the fact that every corner, every building, has its own story. And like I said, with the right guide and company, four days is plenty of time.

The New Deal

According to Phil Lowry of Custom Ireland, much of how Dublin looks today is due to the government’s decision to join the EU – which means better infrastructure and greater access – and invite foreign investors to help develop the city’s economic potential. An important part of Dublin’s urban infrastructure is the 4.5-kilometer tunnel from M1 Coolock Interchange to Dublin Port. The tunnel, said to have reduced both traffic and pollution dramatically since it opened in 2006, is the longest urban motorway tunnel in Europe.

Small-town Haunts

We spent our first day in Malahide, a small coastal town on the outskirts of Dublin. After a big lunch at Gibney’s – a local pub and restaurant – we went sightseeing at Malahide Castle, which sits on 105 hectares, most of it a beautiful, sprawling park now open to the public. Owned by the Talbot family, the castle served as the family’s private residence for 791 years, only to be sold to the state in 1973 after the death of its last owner, Baron Talbot. Workers say the castle is haunted by past members of the family, though no one has actually ever seen a ghost. “Usually it’s just a feeling that someone’s in the room, or somewhere in the next room,” says the museum guide. “Or some of us feel like their shoulder has been tapped.” Ghosts aside, the vast estate that once hosted notable guests such as James Boswell is well worth a visit.

Everyone’s Irish on March 17th

 March 17th is celebrated in much of the Western world as St. Patrick’s Day – and even those not familiar with the date are often well-versed in the tradition. From Belarus to New Zealand to Japan, St. Patrick’s Day attracts hundreds and thousands, even millions, of revelers. In Ireland, St. Patrick’s Day is probably the second most anticipated holiday after Christmas. On this day, most local venues allow free entry to people named Patrick, Pat, Patricio, Patricia, Paddy and other variations of the name. But the main attraction in Dublin has always been the festive parade. This year’s parade was marked by 10 larger-than-life floats, eight marching bands, hundreds of pageant participants, and more than 150,000 spectators going rah-rah over every attraction. On occasions like these, I think the parade itself comes second, while the all-important aspect of the day is the crowd itself – some loud, some silent, some obnoxious, some helpful … and all wearing green.

Here, There, Everywhere

Dubliners, to paraphrase James Joyce, are proud of their rich history, but more than that they are proud of their legacy. Some of the world’s greatest thinkers and writers lived or were born in Dublin, including Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett and Joyce. Wilde’s at-ease statue in Archbishop Ryan Park has become a regular tourist must-see, while Joyce’s Center is home to his unpublished writings now celebrated by his readers. As for Beckett, well, there’s a bridge over the Lifey River named after him.

Other notable historical legacies are Dublin’s churches, mansions and castles – everywhere you turn there’s a tall, towering landmark worthy of a Kodak moment. Some of them feature gargoyles on the roof, or statues of angels and saints.

At the top of this list is probably Ireland’s oldest university, founded in 1592. Located in Dublin’s College Green, across from the former Irish Houses of Parliament, Trinity College is among the top 50 universities worldwide and home to the famous Long Room Library, which holds thousands of old and rare texts dating as far back as the early 1600s. The oldest work is also the country’s most inspirational treasure: the Book of Kells, an ancient manuscript dating back to 800 C.E. and containing four of the gospels from the New Testament, translated into Latin and transcribed by Celtic monks who had mastered Western calligraphy.

The Storehouse

Dublin is the home of the world’s most famous stout, now celebrating 250 years in business. The “Home of Guinness” attracts 4 to 5 million visitors a year, easily making it the most popular tourist destination in the country. The building has seven floors circling a glass atrium, and is laid out in the shape of a Guinness pint, with the top as a bonus, the Gravity Bar, where visitors get a 360-degree view of Dublin. The storehouse was built as an extension to the brewery, serving as an exhibition hall where all the documentation pertaining to Guinness is stored, curated and put on display. Storehouse public liaison Mark McGovern says old employee records dating back to the 1800s are still kept in the archives for research purposes.

So go on – discover Dublin!

The writer won a trip to Dublin and the Guinness factory for her article about the brewer’s 250th anniversary, published in The Jakarta Post in 2009.

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