I have been in Jakarta for just one month and have been searching for the soul of the city, trying to find something unique that sets Jakarta apart from other cities around the world.
I started with the city museums trying to understand the history of Jakarta as a place, why it is here, why it developed the way it did and why Jakarta is what it is today.
I was hoping to find an exhibition something like that at the National Museum of Singapore, where an excellent set of galleries exist detailing the history of Singapore both in chronological order and through the experience of ordinary people.
Much to my disappointment I find the museums of Jakarta sadly neglected, there are a wealth of wonderful exhibits, but they are poorly displayed and it looks as if they have not been maintained or updated since independence. Also, the museum shops, if you can call them that, are appalling, for example the Jakarta History Museum has a few dirty books on display, which look like they have been there since the museum opened.
Apart from the neglect of the museums, what really appalls me is the total neglect and wanton destruction of the Old City.
The neglect of the old urban area around the Jakarta Museum is a disgrace to the city administration.
I can only assume it is intentional, as such total destruction can only happen by design, somebody or some powerful group of people want it that way. I would expect that over the next few years many of the old buildings will collapse or be pulled down by site owners on the pretext that they are dangerous to the public.
The neglect might be understandable if the area were totally abandoned by the ordinary people of Jakarta but each weekend the area is packed with people happy to wander around and enjoy the unique atmosphere.
This unique atmosphere is lacking in the new city of Jakarta created since independence. Many of my colleagues told me before I came to Jakarta that it was a soulless city, full of bland shopping centers,
I must admit I have to agree. A city where people can live rather than just exist has to be more than isolated shopping centers.
The city should have spaces for people, not just cars. When compared for example with Orchard Road in Singapore, Jakarta is sadly lacking.
I found the streets of Jakarta are not people friendly, the car is king. It is not even safe to walk on the pavements in many places due to lack of repair and the presence of open, smelly drains. Even where good pavements do exist they are used as parking spaces, pedestrians have no priority. Once the old city area is finally destroyed by the “Money Men” of Jakarta, there will be nothing left that is unique and sets Jakarta apart from other cities around the world, a most valuable place for people will be lost forever.
I assume it will be replaced by the same dull shopping centers, full of European and American stores selling international labels.
If that is what the people of Jakarta want it is very sad. But I get the feeling that the people of Jakarta have not been consulted, they seem to believe it is inevitable that they will lose their city, that they have no say in what is retained and destroyed.
If this was a European city and the city administration was destroying the Old City center as is happening in Jakarta, there would be public protests, public marches and students from architect colleges would march at city hall.
I am trying to understand why the people of Jakarta have no regard for their history, heritage and culture in this respect. Is it something to do with the education system? Are they taught that only a selective part of their history is valid, maybe they are taught that the Chinese and the Dutch Colonial period of their history must be eradicated from memory?
For whatever reason the Old City of Jakarta is being destroyed I believe it is a criminal act, it is vandalism not only of the physical buildings but also of Jakarta’s heritage, which belongs to everybody just a bunch of developers with political connections.
— Jack O’Neill
