Deep in the wilderness of West Sumba lurks the most unlikely of people – not a cannibal, or Totem-wielding beast, or a primordial dwarf, but rather a French hot-air balloonist with a degree in biology from Strasbourg University.
JP/EMANUEL DAPA LOKA
Having worked as a hot-air balloon pilot for 20 years, the 52-year old André Graff has reneged his life in France in favor of living in Waru Wora, in the Laboya district of the West Sumba regency, living as a local, digging wells, constructing a house for himself made of reeds and bamboo, and learning how to survive in such a barren environment.
How he ended up there is quite an extraordinary tale. Graff initially entered Sumba as a tourist in 2004 and attempted to seekout the most remote places, traveling from village to village, and pursuing his passion for photography along the way. Different than most perhaps, though not an altogether outlandish thing for a tourist to do. However, for every photograph he took, he noted the name and address of each subject, and promised that he would send them a copy when he returned to France.
What happened? By the end of his trip, he had produced 3,500 images of people and thousands of landscapes. Upon his return, he printed the photos and immediately paid off his promises by organizing to send the photos. But after thinking about all the addresses he had accrued, and the remoteness of some of the places, he soon became convinced that the regular postal service could not be relied on.
A promise was a promise, however, and in 2005 he decided to return to Sumba for good and deliver the photographs himself — thus concluding his rather fairytale account of this remarkable change in lifestyle.
Living about 30 kilometers from Waikabubak, the capital of Laboya and itself a place with limited facilities, Graff has become a key figure in the local community. The customary elders have nicknamed him Amaenodu (a special way of saying Laboya), and since 2005, despite having no prior experience, he has dug no less than 22 wells for the community, each costing, on average, Rp 10 million (US$1,100).
“I did not have these skills at first but I learned them together with the community,” he said. “We studied together and eventually we could do the work together.”
To support these projects, and his newfound lifestyle, Graff relies on the income generated from renting his house in France.
“But I also have friends who have helped me fund the wells, and I have my savings,” he explained. “I am not a rich man who can act as a Santa Claus. And even if I was rich, I would not be like that. I want to live together with this community alone.”
Notorious for frequent droughts and a low rainfall, Sumba is a tough environment in which to live, with barely any clean local water. Yet the only Western commodities he affords himself are a stove, a solar power system and a laptop, in case a sporadic internet connection comes through.
“I was fascinated by the struggle that the community face in such an unfriendly environment, they have survived for generations because they have struggled on, and I admire this,” he said.
Graff is keen to continue his efforts to bring water into the life of the community, and has sought further contributions from friends to install a water pump and build a reservoir in both Pacala Bawah village and Waru Wora village, both located in Lamboya. From the two villages, which are located on the top of hills, water can be channeled into people’s homes. In total, the project will cost around Rp 300 million.
“There was no other way for me to complete this project than to live with the residents, to understand their lives, and then invite them to be actively involved. I did something. I wanted us to move forward together and I enjoyed doing it,” he explained.
“The Marapu [Sumba] people are still bound by customary laws. Many social workers find it difficult to help them, I remember one who said the people were ‘crazy’ because of their customs, and I thought ‘well in that case I’m going to go crazy with them.’”
On top of building wells and supporting the local community, Graff has held a photography exhibition at the French Cultural Centre in Jakarta in order to increase awareness of the shortage of clean water that occurs in remote parts of Indonesia, whilst also trying to expose some of the richness of Sumba culture.
Fascinating Sumba ran from February 22, 2010 to March 7, 2010.
“This is my life. I did not choose to live in Sumba, but now I cannot run away, and do not want to run away. Maybe this was the Marupu’s wish,” he said with a smile.
Talking about his plan, Graff has sent a letter to the French Embassy saying that when he dies he doesn’t want his body sent back to his country.
“Usually the government will send the body of the deceased back home. I have said there’s no need. I want to go into the ground of the poor people at the cheapest cost. My body does not have meaning, but I hope my actions here do.”
