Everyone gets around
And nobody can ever get you down
We’ll surf like they do in the USA
We’ll fly down to Sydney for our holiday On sunny Christmas Day Australia Australia...
— The Kinks, Australia
This song was a far cry from the reality of early July this year. In fact, at first glance it appeared to be the worst time, weather-wise, to be in Victoria, as Australia’s southernmost continental state was experiencing its longest cold snap in 14 years.
Coming from latitudes further north, shopping plans became highly questionable as winter lines had taken over. Pretty as it was, buying that lush woolen coat would likely be the wrong move if you come from the tropics. As for beaches, lets just say don’t bother packing your bikini. Yet, being in Victoria in the dead of winter has a charm of its own — take the Great Ocean Road tour for example.
The great what? Ocean? In winter? You are in for a surprise. The seaside can be fun even without sunbathing or swimming.
Save for the die-hard surfers, who flock this spot for its world-famous breaks in warmer months, the beaches were fairly deserted if not from the constant stream of visitors who come from the world over to catch a glimpse of its spectacular scenery.
The highlight of the Great Ocean Road is the Twelve Apostles, situated around four hours’ drive from Melbourne. These towering limestone rock formations, forged over millions of years by the natural process of erosion, stand off the shore of Port Campbell National Park.
Viewed from one of the very windy observation points the solitary beach below and great waves constantly crashing against the cliffs makes for a somewhat solemn experience worthy of the site’s name. Lucky the original name of this geological phenomenon, “The Sow and Piglets”, didn’t stick, lest the tranquility be subdued.
The Cape Otway Lighthouse and Telegraph Station, built in 1848, sit strategically on the southernmost tip of the Australian mainland west of Melbourne, and offer a peek into Australia’s history. Here, we can learn about the early days of immigration. Despite the lighthouse, more than 200 ships sunk between
Moonlight Head and Cape Otway, leading some to call the area the Shipwreck Coast.
Informative pictures and plaques provide historical accounts of the lighthouse, including its colorful caretakers and the famous ships and captains that met their fate on the coast. Rooms and furniture are carefully preserved, especially the humble caretaker’s cottage.
It’s impossible to soak up all the Great Ocean Road has to offer in one day, so, the most sensible option for your first day of this trip would be to make your way out of Melbourne via the Princes Freeway and make brief stops en route to one of the area’s abundant bed and breakfasts. You could even stay at the lighthouse.
According to Helen Chambers, the manager of a cottage near the lighthouse, if you don’t own a car, you can get to the area using the state bus line, VLINE, which plies the Great Ocean Road route every day.
Once in the region, you can take a tour on a shuttle service (booking two or three days in advance is essential).
As the Kinks song goes, Australia’s unique climate enables you enjoy summer in December, so why not go all the way for an ultimate winter in July? Head up to Victoria’s alpine region, where winter pleasures such as skiing and snowboarding await — if you plan carefully ahead.
Taryn Elder from the Falls Creek Resort — one of the places that offers such pleasures — said one good tip for first timers, and even seasoned veterans, is to take a look at the snow report at www.fallscreek.com.au to get the latest updates on weather conditions, given Australia’s infamous hot and dry climate. Other information including on ski lifts and special events is also detailed on the site.
Entry into Falls Creek Resort, around four-and-a-half-hours north of Melbourne, costs A$32 per car per day or $270 for the season. Bundle up and if you are driving, make sure you have snow chains, and even a shovel to dig your car out of the snow.
“If people are looking for something to do other than skiing we’ve got heaps of activities such as snowcoaches, snowbikes, snow tubing and tobogganing, snowmobile tours, sunset tours, snow shoe tours and night shows,” Elder said.
The Falls Creek Coach terminal in the nearby town of Mount Beauty offers coach services from Melbourne. Or, if you don’t fancy taking the bus, check out www.mountainrideshare.com for ride-share information.
You might wish to stay as close to the action as possible, but nearby towns such as Bright and Mount Beauty have plenty of cottages and hotels to choose from, particularly if you are not keen on being so close to the cold and want to do other activities that are not snow-related.
The Japanese-themed Springfield Cottage, down Simmons Creek Road in Mount Beauty, is a unique option. You won’t find wooden panels or lattice windows at this single-roomed bed and breakfast, but instead clean-cut contrasting interiors, satsuma scent, “lucky cats” and even complimentary sushi on your first day.
“I chose the Japanese theme because it is different to the normal B&Bs, which is usually English country style,” says Sue Bennett, who runs the cottage.
The smoke-free cottage boasts many bonuses, including free port and wine, delicious and filling home made breakfasts (the French toast is exceptional), and even a range of DVDs and VHS tapes to choose from — mostly Hollywood classics. But perhaps the real highlight of the cottage is its majestic view of Mount Bogong.
Bennett has taken full advantage of this privileged position by installing sliding glass doors to the cottage. Simply open the blinds and you can enjoy the full picture. Complemented by the serene atmosphere provided by the local wildlife, the interior, and the misty winter mornings, it’s safe to say that it’s all Zen. As Bennett says, “It’s pretty quiet except for the birds,” and indeed from inside the rooms you can see dozens of frisky cockatoos with their distinct sound, flying and perching on nearby trees.
Non-snow-related activities available include golfing and bushwalking, both of which come with the added bonus of a possible kangaroo sighting. But perhaps the best way to explore the town and its surroundings is by riding a bike. The local tourist information spot provides a map of a 12-kilometer bike trail around the township, which is quite easy and you takes in picturesque sights such as Lake Hume and numerous orchards and lush pastures.
Serenity, snow and sips of hot chocolate. With all the additional delights of Victoria’s mid-year weather, that Kinks song should have another verse talking about Australia’s winter.
— Photos by JP/Dina Indrasafitri
