Chips Off the Old Block

Innovative young talents are helping Indonesian design build a reputation based on far more than batik and woodcarvings.

By Hana Miller

 Clued-in consumers and collectors hoping to find the perfect distinctive look know where to turn – to the new generation of designers in fashion, textiles and jewelry.

 The following four young women represent a cross-section of Indonesian creative talents at various stages of their early careers. They are names to look out for, and harbingers of ever more exciting things to come. They share with us their perspectives on the contemporary world of design, and pay homage to their creative cultural legacy.

 Creator of the Nikicio fashion label, renowned for its classic look, Nina Nikicio is celebrating the launch of a collection that will fix her name in the mass market.

Your inspiration?

Anything at all. Usually when I travel to new places or when I’m completely relaxed, then the ideas and concepts start to flow naturally. Silly conversations between my closest friends and me also help and, of course, music! I’m currently in love with Gorillaz and Mystery Jets’ newest album.

On design in Indonesia?

Definitely growing fast. Now you can see many young labels that concentrate on ready-to-wear. Before it was all about wedding gowns, kebaya, cocktail gowns and couture. Now a lot of designs are more accessible and I’m very, very proud to be a part of this growing community. 

What’s next?

A new exclusive collection for Centro department store. Nikicio x Centro will launch this October, we are going mass and that’s what we always wanted to do. Hopefully the response is good. Wish us luck!

Based in Bali’s fashion hotspot of Seminyak, Stephanie Vermaas designs jewelry and leather goods for her label RBRTH, which features alongside other local designers at her concept store This Is a Love Song.

Your inspiration?

My last collection was inspired by an Indiana Jones movie, The Last Crusade, where I took Indy’s gun and broke it down into pieces of silver jewelry. The collection is titled “The Webley”. I guess you never know where inspiration might come from until it’s there.

On fashion in Indonesia?

Fashion in Indonesia has grown a lot in the past two years, especially in Jakarta. I only caught on to it recently when we had to source local brands for our store This Is a Love Song in Bali. We wanted to support local names because there is heaps of new talent with international standards, but they don’t get enough exposure. When we joined the last Brightspot market we were pretty impressed!

Featured on online treasure troves ranging from Vogue to Etsy, London-based Michelle Oh has found an international clientele for her wearable sculptures that push the boundaries of jewelry design

Describe your work

I like testing this word “wearable”, because what makes one person want to wear something is totally different to the next person. Living in London is perfect for it because just walking down the streets you see all sorts. It’s not uncommon to pass by characters that look like they’ve just stepped out of some bizarre fantasy film set. I guess coming from Indonesia where stereotypically people are a lot more conscious of wanting to “fit in” rather than “stick out”, it was awesome to suddenly be among people so eager to do whatever they can to not fit in. So I try to use that in my work.

On visual art in Indonesia?

Aesthetics and craftsmanship are two things that I find most Indonesians value in visual arts. Viewing art as a commodity is another strengthening trend. I hope that in the future, there will be more emphasis on conceptual expressions and experimental approaches.

Sofie Pulungan’s love of both contemporary fashion and traditional design inspires her work in textiles and jewelry at the College of Fine Arts in NSW, Australia.

Your influences?

My inspiration often comes from my surroundings and my own experiences or thoughts. I feel that I am filled with creativity when I’m irritated with something and I create jewelry as a “response”. I feel as a designer I have a commitment to show social responsibility through the beauty of jewelry. My greatest influence is Indonesian traditions, people and their characters.

On jewelry in Indonesia?

The jewelry scene in Indonesia is very diverse and it’s booming with emerging young independent designers. It’s exceptional to see fellow Indonesians representing Indonesia with their creativity and talent. We need to expose more brilliant designers so that Indonesia is about more than just “Bali” or “Indomie”. We need more designers to represent Indonesia’s opulent culture and diversity.

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