Chef Guruh Nugraha: JP/J.Adiguna
Chef Guruh Nugraha knows how to keep his cool in the kitchen even when things reach boiling point.
In March, accompanied by his assistant Risky Hidayah, he battled a fever and contestants from 11 other countries to take a surprise fourth place in the Bocuse d’Or Asia in Shanghai.
It earned him one of the 24 spots in the upcoming Bocuse d’Or World Culinary Finals — the first time Indonesia will be represented at the biannual event for young, talented chefs since it was established by Paul Bocuse in 1987.
Last Monday, he cooked the same dishes — this year’s Bocuse d’Or theme foods of monkfish and saddle of lamb — that he will prepare in France during a practice session with Risky.
As they have done every two days for the past several weeks, the men focused on chopping, dicing, mixing and braising during the five and a half hour session at the Rotaryana kitchen equipment showroom in Menteng, Central Jakarta, with no bathroom or smoking breaks as they worked to complete the food on time.
“It’s important to communicate, and give proper direction, telling him the do’s and don’ts,” says Guruh, 31, of working with a younger assistant (the Bocuse d’Or rules require that the assistant be no older than 22).
It was Risky, 21, who stepped up to help out ailing Guruh in Shanghai. He won the Best Assistant Award at the event, in which Malaysia, China and perennial top finisher Japan also qualified to represent Asia on Jan. 25-26 in Lyon, France.
Painstaking preparations are important, Guruh says, but the bread-and-butter of cooking right lies with the chef’s own judgment.
As a timer sounds ominously, he proves his point by gulping a spoonful of the concoction he has cooked and silently evaluating it, before darting off to the next task at hand.
“A good chef must pay attention to the basics, such as tasting the food he cooks, the timing, seasoning and the cooking method,” says Guruh who, like Risky, is from the Riva Restaurant at The Park Lane Jakarta. “It’s what is instructed by my teachers every day.”
The “teachers” include French chef Gilles Marx, formerly at Riva who established Amuz restaurant last year, and The Park Lane executive chef Stefu Santoso, who is the manager for their trip to France.
Scottish monkfish with foie gras and bacon: JP/J. Adiguna
“When it comes to the recipes, everything is practiced in advance, so now it’s more about how they work in the kitchen, the taste, making sure it is the same, the final touches to make sure it is as perfect as possible,” says Marx, who is the official coach of Indonesia.
“And most important of all is the timing, because if you’re just a couple of minutes late there are penalties.”
Exceeding the time limit was the problem for favored Singapore and Korea in Shanghai. Marx says the Indonesian team aims to have all dishes ready 15 minutes ahead of time in Lyon just in case.
Marx and Stefu also serve as “judges” on the practice days, sampling every dish to determine if it
passes the taste test as Guruh watches intently. He has come up with a Middle Eastern-influenced menu, including the use of chickpeas, polenta and couscous in his garnish dishes. But it’s still about creating fine French food.
“Too much black pepper,” the Frenchman pronounces after tasting a portion. “We don’t use that much in French cuisine.”
There is also the all-important temperature factor. In Shanghai, the Indonesian team was surprised to see other contestants lugging elaborate trays with heating fixtures. Only later did it dawn on them that they were to keep dishes warm for the judges’ tasting.
Despite the regular practice, and the adjustment of the Rotaryana space to closely resemble the Bocuse d’Or cooking area, chances are that not everything will go according to plan on the big day.
Guruh has been practicing with imported European monkfish but has had to make do with Australian lamb instead of the Scottish meat that will be used in the competition.
As the luck of the draw would have it, he also is scheduled to compete on the first day of competition along with the home country contestant. Stefu likens the atmosphere of the competition to soccer’s World Cup, with supporters from each country raucously cheering on their compatriots.
It will be a challenge for Guruh, but it’s one the slim father of a toddler daughter relishes. He says it’s only during his six years at Riva that he has come to understand the meaning and art of cooking.
“You learn something new every day. Cooking is my life. When you win or you perform according to your target, it makes you happy, proud and satisfied because you have increased your culinary knowledge,” says the man from Bogor, West Java.
“If you fail, of course you are disappointed but it’s a valuable lesson.”
There has never been a winner of the Bocuse d’Or from outside northern Europe during its 24-year history and 12 competitions (the only non-European to finish in the top three is Singapore’s William Wai Kuan Hong, the bronze medalist in 1989). The Indonesian team is keeping its hopes realistic for a top 20 placing first time around.
Marx is confident about the team’s abilities. He notes the pair’s commitment to the competition, including practicing after work until dawn when they were preparing for the regional contest after qualifying in 2009 at the national level.
“Guruh had done some competitions for us before, and he always does very well. He looks very nervous but on the day he copes with the pressure. And with Risky it’s an excellent team.”
Guruh will compete in a specially designed uniform with red-and-white flags on the collar. Red chilies — used as garnish on the couscous — is a reminder of home.
“This is the greatest experience of my life,” he says. “I’m very proud to be able to represent Indonesia and compete against chefs from all over the world.”
— Photos by JP/J. Adiguna
