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Jakarta Post

Life around Lake Toba

Many cultures value life, change and progress but some cultures revere its past

Varsha Venugopalan (The Jakarta Post)
Medan, North Sumatra
Sun, July 10, 2011

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Life around Lake Toba

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any cultures value life, change and progress but some cultures revere its past.

The dead, age-old traditions and mysticism of symbols or tribal art preserve a part of history to introduce to those curious enough to know. That is what you will experience with Batak culture at Lake Toba in Sumatra.

The sacred Samosir Island located in the middle of North Sumatra’s prehistoric Lake Toba is all about the destination rather than the journey there.

The long journey is definitely worth the experience. Since there are no direct planes to the island, you have to take a flight to Medan’s Polonia International airport.

At the airport you can take various taxis or minivans that will take you on a four-hour journey to Parapat port, which is further north of Sumatra. From the port there are several boats that usually come by every one hour to cruise around Lake Toba to Samosir Island.
A boat cruises in Lake Toba. — Photo by Varsha Venugopalan

Lake Toba was formed about 70,000 years ago after a 700,000 -year-old volcano eruption. The eruption was possibly the largest explosive volcanic eruption within the last 25 million years.

With a depth of about 450 meters, one feels like they are sailing on what is one of earth’s most prehistoric sites. The isthmus of Samosir Island is about the size of Singapore with 120,000 inhabitants, almost no crowds, good accommodation choices, cheap prices and, most importantly, an indigenous Batak society.

Batak societies are found mostly in North Sumatra, which includes Toba, Karo, Angkola and more. Toba Batak locals are the only societies that strongly identify themselves as Batak and speak a unique dialect of the Batak language.

There are about 1.5 million Batak people most of which follow Christianity and a lesser number, Islam. A certain number of Batak people go by traditional practices.

The modern form of the Batak religion of Toba is called Malim and its followers are called Parmalim. The non-Malim Batak people, who follow Christianity or Muslim faiths, occasionally believe some certain facets of Batak spiritual beliefs.

To really get a glimpse of the traditional style and rule of Batak you must go to Ambarita. Located to the north of Tuk-tuk this traditional village has a lot to offer. As you enter the mossy stone gateway of Huta Siallagan you have to sign a guestbook and pay a small fee.

As you enter you can see some replicas of Batak style houses. The important part about Ambarita is an ancient but barbaric courtyard, where the convicted were tortured.

Alongside the Huta Siallagan you can find a line of shops to bargain for souvenirs from wood carved masks to woven cloth.

If you want to enjoy some traditional dance, view an age-old ritualistic performance and see some historical artefacts roofed under a traditional Batak house then Simanindo is the place for you.

You will first be guided to a seating area under a Batak style ceiling to view a traditional Batak dance or Tortor where they display several stages of an old ceremony.

After viewing that you can take a look at King Sidauruk’s house-turned-museum that now houses Batak and colonial antiquities such as swords, pottery, maps, books, tribal masks and stone statues. The different weapons displayed here are suggestive of the fierce warriors the Batak were before the colonial rule by the Dutch government.

The stone chairs. — Photo by Varsha Venugopalan
The stone chairs. — Photo by Varsha Venugopalan

As all Batak tribes have their own specialities, the Toba Batak is known culturally for wood carvings, weaving and elaborate stone tombs. You can enjoy this in a traditional village setting with gorgeous houses and cultural goodies to bargain for at a flea market alongside at Tomok. It is located about 5 kilometers from Tuk-Tuk.

As you enter, you will see various stalls with a plethora of handicrafts, traditional Batak goodies like musical instruments, Lake Toba t-shirts and key-chains being sold. Tucked beside this lane is the must-visit historical grave site of King Sidabutar and his family.

The place features many stone tombs especially the famous 200- year-old ship-shaped stone casket of the Batak King Sidabutar. There is a tour guide who gives an introductory speech about Batak and King Sidabutar at the entrance seating area of the tombs.

Further down there is a doll on a stage with the story that a former king requested for a dancing doll after the loss of his son, which now remains a tradition at funerals.

A good place to take things slow and catch some hot-springs and view some old colonial architecture is at Pangururan located on one of Samosir island’s shores.

There is a hot shower area and if you’re up for it, a geothermal hill to walk up to the springs. You can see the amazing sulphur crystals formed and come back down and take a dip in a hot-spring water swimming pool with a view of the mountains afar.

After that you can have a nice lunch at the adjoining little outdoor restaurant and go see a Dutch-built Catholic church in traditional Batak style with an underground museum as well.

Here you can see a collection of works from colonial settlers and missionaries. Most of the information on the pre-colonial traditions of Batak culture is evident, mostly the written records of Dutch missionaries who were concerned about Batak practices during the 19th century. On an end note you can view some of the Old Dutch houses along Jl. Belanda.

For some, the best way-to-go would be to take a nice after-lunch walk around for some nice glimpses of not just the lake view and mountains but also the simplistic village life with cottages and little shops that run the lane.

There are shops displaying traditional art and paintings with some pleasant little restaurants and even shops selling second-hand books and DVDs. It guarantees the best scenic and observational experience of Batak culture and Samosir up close and personal.

A nice drive allows you to explore a large-scale view of the island. When taking a drive, you observe several elements to Batak culture such as vast rice fields and wetlands.

Toba is known best for growing rice which also holds a religious significance. It is believed to increase the power of the Batak high priests who are responsible for the agricultural prosperity.

Batak culture gives great importance to preserving tombs, cemeteries and burial sites, which is evident while driving along Samosir. Most of the tombs, even some large ornate bone-houses called tugu, carry intricate burial traditions.

A tribal mask and a wood carving. — Photo by Varsha Venugopalan
A tribal mask and a wood carving. — Photo by Varsha Venugopalan

The bones of Batak people that are originally buried after death are later exhumed, cleaned and reburied after a certain time. In the past, the coffins were carved from stone, wood or brick but they now use cement or concrete.

Strolling around Samosir you can get a glimpse of traditional Batak architecture along the sandy-roads riddled with Sumatran pine trees. There are many custom homes called Jab in Toba language or traditional house.

The structure is made of large wooden pillars that rest in flat stone or concrete to protect it from flood or water rises. The pillars support long beams, which cover the length of the house and carry a huge projecting roof formed as an inbound triangular-like shape at the top.

The traditional structure of the roof is made to provide a larger internal space and is exquisitely decorated with carved patterns of stars, suns and usually in colours of black, red and white. The ancient jabu used to be entranced via a trap door with hidden stairs in the floor but they now use more accessible wooden ladders fixed to the front of the house.

Batak Totem. — Photo by Varsha Venugopalan
Batak Totem. — Photo by Varsha Venugopalan

There are lots of myths and rituals with paradoxical beliefs such as humans and animals, life and death, village and forest, warfare and agriculture, all used in ceremonial beliefs to bring the opposites together to release power.

If you pay close attention you can see various symbols around from the decorations on buildings, woodcarvings and tomb imprints. The symbols are art forms used to represent the cosmologic order. The ends of a jab gable, for example, are usually decorated with wood carvings of a serpent Naga Padoha and lizards and weird-shaped heads.

Most of their carvings: funerary masks, textiles, rituals, layouts, structures, the colours used and dances all represent their belief in the Batak cosmological order.

Other attractions at Lake Toba would be paragliding and water sports such as swimming, diving, and water-skiing. You can catch a boat along the Tuk-Tuk coast to see other neighboring islands, which also have good resorts and places to stay.

TRAVEL TIPS

There are many accommodation options along the Tuk-Tuk coast so once you reach Samosir you can use the boat to float along and pick the most favourable spot before booking.

The best person to ask about attractions on Samosir Island or other islands would be to the receptionist of the hotel.

There are no ATMs on Samosir so it is wise to keep cash handy.

Most accommodation has Internet available.

It’s known for power outages - so do watch out.

You can request for transport or a guide around the island or just get a map of the vicinity from the hotel so you can plan your own way.

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