Holidays in Tokyo

Japan and its capital Tokyo are on the mend from this year’s devastating natural disasters.

They have missed a lot of travelers in Tokyo this year. The Tohoku Quake and its aftermath still send shockwaves up and down the eastern part of Honshu, literally and figuratively. That and the still quite high yen exchange rate have combined to produce almost a perfect storm.

However, as with all crises, there are opportunities.

For one, Tokyo is simply not as crowded as it usually is. That in itself is rare, and for those interested in visiting, it may be worth whatever trials and tribulations are involved.

Before You Leave

Tokyo has three English-language online magazines with listings of events such as concerts and museum exhibits: Tokyo Weekender: www.tokyoweekender.com; Metropolis: www.metropolis.co.jp and Time Out Tokyo: http://www.timeout.jp/en/tokyo. All three are worth a look. Before leaving, it is also worth checking out the Japan National Tourism Organization (http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/) and its sister site (http://www.seejapan.co.uk/), which contain sightseeing and shopping guides to various districts in Tokyo.

Thou Shalt Not

In Japan, the unwritten commandment was “thou shalt not tip”; now, it is eating food that has not been clearly tested and sourced. More and more restaurants are instituting programs to make that kind of information available, but, for the moment, some caution is advisable.

Getting from the Airport

The best ways into Tokyo from the international airport are by Narita Express (which stops at many of the major stations) or by airport bus (many airport buses make stops outside individual hotels, which can save on walking time). The trains are faster but the bus may get you closer to your destination.

Getting Around

Most visitors to Tokyo see only a fraction of the city; after all, it really is a very large, sprawling place where the most charming old-style building or shrine can be almost entirely hidden by large office blocks. The same applies for restaurants, smaller museums and shops. Often you find these by luck, with a knowing native or a very good guide, or a combination of all three.

Using the Japan Rail (JR) Green Yamanote line as a compass is not a bad way to begin to understand the city. Inside the oval shape and around are most (although not all) of the major attractions. The east side has the Maranouchi Business District, home to many of the best hotels. On the southern side of the oval is the famous Akihabara District, still a good place to shop for electronic goods (although it is recommended that you stick to one of the larger chain stores for reliable refunds on duty as well as any extended warranty issues).

Two stops further on the Yamanote, almost the southern edge of the oval, is Ueno. On one side of Ueno is a large park, the site of several of Tokyo’s best museums. On the other side of the tracks – literally – is a warren of shops and stands selling everything from perfumes to leather goods and brands of jeans made only in Japan. The one thing about this area that is almost unique to Tokyo is that prices are not always fixed: bargaining is allowed. There are actually two separate malls, the covered Ueno Central Mall and the open-air Ameyoko Clothes and Food Market. Both extend from Ueno along the JR tracks toward Okachimachi Station.

From Ueno, the Yamanote circles both east and west. On the west side of Tokyo are Shinjuku, Harajuku, Omotesando and Shibuya. Ginza was once the place to go to see a real Japanese department store. Times have changed, and Isetan, in Shinjuku (a 10-minute walk from Shinjuku Station or directly above Shinjuku-San-Chome) is the department store that carries all the latest designers as well as its own brand.

Isetan carries on a tradition that may be on the verge of extinction. For years, Japanese department stores were the places to see the latest and the best. The Internet changed that. Some products are released earlier in other markets (the USA or EU) and interested Japanese consumers are no longer captive to the domestic market. To make up for it, department stores have tried novelty, and the holidays are particularly good times to see the inventiveness of celebrity chefs and pastry makers, who are often invited to create seasonal specialties (“Christmas Cake” in Japan is not the European-style fruitcake or British-style pudding, but rather a sponge layer cake with heavily sweetened icing topped with strawberries).

The streets around Isetan are a warren of restaurants, bars and some boutiques.

Between Shinjuku and Shibuya is Harajuku, a neighborhood name and a stop on the Yamanote line. Harajuku is a cluster of alleys and warrens that house boutique after boutique. Some of the designers are world famous, others are not known outside Japan, while still others remain undiscovered.

Very near Harajuku is Omotesando. Omotesando also has a number of small streets dotted with boutiques and restaurants but the styles target adults. There are a number of world-famous names (e.g., Brooks Brothers) in Omotesando as well, but it is generally a less frenetic and crowded place than Harajuku.

Shibuya is just down the line from Harajuku and Omotesando. Shibuya is really several different neighborhoods combined. NHK, the Japanese national television station, has its headquarters in Shibuya so it has always had a media presence. There are also a number of publishers (print, online, DVD) in the district.

At the same time, Shibuya is a shopping hub, containing the famed Shibuya 109 (once stocking only to women’s clothes but a companion, 109 for men, opened across the street). The original justly famous Tokyo Hands store is in Shibuya (Tokyo Hands is something of a cross between a home improvement store, with improvements you have never imagined, a tool store with tools so finely made you want to frame them and quite a few more practical items). The whole district is crisscrossed by alleys and several hills (one of them famous for “love hotels” and nightclubs).

All three districts can be walked around, although each requires several hours. To avoid crowds, the best time is usually before lunch but note that some shops keep later hours and do not open until 10 or 11 a.m.

Some Tokyo Musts and Shoulds

For a meal you will remember, the Michelin Guide gave Tsukuji-Uemara a star. It serves seafood, sushi and tempura and more. The restaurant closes near the end of the year so call for reservations and opening hours (03-3541-1351).

The period leading up to Christmas has become the season of Christmas markets in Tokyo. Last year there were three – German, French/Alsatian and Austrian – each featuring food from the respective region, some regional specialties and souvenirs.

The German Christmas Market at Roppongi Hills is the oldest such market. It features traditional winter fare, soups, sausages, apple pancakes and mulled wine. Many local German restaurants run stands there, and there are nutcrackers, Christmas tree ornaments and other souvenirs that are appropriate to the season.

The Roppongi Hills Christmas Market is set in an alcove that is covered if it rains, and the whole complex is on a terrace several levels above the surrounding streets so there is less noise from cars and it is quite safe for children.

Many of the Christmas markets and year-end festivals and lighting arrangements will be a bit more restrained this year. That may make it easier for visitors to see several of them and to have a chance to appreciate them.

Where to Lay Your Head

For many years, the number of international five-star hotels in Tokyo was limited. This began to change about five years ago. The chain that will be most familiar to travelers from any part of Southeast Asia, Shangri-La, opened in March 2009 (http://www.shangri-la.com/en/property/tokyo/shangrila). As this hotel is located on the top 10 floors of a skyscraper just outside Tokyo Station, it is easy to get anywhere within the city from just outside it. Although many five-star hotels cater mostly to business travelers, the Shangri-La is family friendly and offers kids’ menus. It also has been active in raising funds for victims of the March 11 disaster. The hotel has special packages where 10 percent is donated to Wish for Japan (www.wishforjapan.jp).

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