A Fine Time at Aoki

If you go down to the Hotel Gran Mahakam today, then you sure will be in for a surprise — a big one if you have not been to the Blok M establishment for a while. The boutique hotel has weathered changing, sometimes stormy times in Jakarta the past decade, even in its own neighborhood (the Barito flower market is now a thing of the past).

It is now stepping forward with a sprucing up here and there, designed to improve the quality of the elegant boutique-style hotel for the needs of guests, but without losing its charm. Its 155-rooms have been renovated to bring them in line with the needs of guests, and much more is planned.

A major change is the renovation of the AOKI, which the Gran Mahakam touts as the most styling dining venue in the city. The restaurant, open daily for lunch and dinner, has an intimacy and quiet elegance, and is reached by a winding staircase to the basement. The renovation last year has produced illustrated dark wooden walls with a touch of flower pattern wallpaper. The rooms are close together but the strategic use of panel divides and subtle lightning ensures a comforting sense of privacy.

And the changes have done nothing to diminish AOKI’s famously enticing delights.

We started with Hansai, a refreshing blend of mixed vegetables with crab, drizzled in Japanese dressing. Next up — the highlight of the meal for me — was the crunchy, tantalizing taste of Fresh Crab Hand Roll, with crab meat wrapped in soy paper, topped with fresh tuna.

The main event, however, was AOKI’s trademark Dry Sukiyaki, with tempting morsels of juicy sliced beef, cooked with a special broth and chili peppers, sautéed vegetables and steamed rice with an egg on top. The unique serving method is that it comes course by course.

It was a sensational, satisfying lunch without being overpowering, just as Japanese cuisine should be (also kudos for the pleasant, restrained but warm service). There was no room left for AOKI’s desserts, including Caramelized Fried Banana, homemade Ogura, Green Tea and Black Sesame Ice Cream. They will have to wait for the next visit.