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span class="inline inline-left">Aflame: As the gamelan grows louder, the war intensifies, with throws becoming more violent as hot cinders speed in all directions.As the sun sank into the horizon, the sound of the traditional ensemble gamelan gradually reached its crescendo, marking the beginning of Mesabatan Api (fire war).

Dozens of bare-chested adolescent males ran toward two huge piles of burning coconut husks in front of the banjar (traditional neighborhood organization) community hall of Nagi in Petulu, Gianyar.

One of the youths picked up one of the blazing coconut husks with his bare hands, playing with it briefly, before throwing it at his opponent. Soon the other youths followed suit, throwing the balls of fire at each other. Sparkling embers created a captivating image against the dark sky.

As the gamelan grew louder, the war intensified. The throws became more violent and hot projectiles of cinders sped in all directions, forcing a number of spectators to step back and maintain a safe distance from the center of the battle.

The spectators might have been a little worried about the possibility of getting a minor burn in the ritualistic fracas, but the participating youths were anything but concerned. They love playing with fire. For them, it was a cheerful war.

The participating youths, like 18-year-old Gde Angga Krisnayana and his friends, looked cheerful during the war. They were laughing while the war played out.

“I don’t feel any pain. I am happy to do it. It is quite stressful, but also fun,” Gde Angga Krisnayana said.

Ablaze: Men throw fire on each other during a ritual held on Pengerupukan, the day before Nyepi, in Banjar Nagi, Gianyar.Yet, he admitted that pain was an integral part of the war and the participants would usually feel it after the war ended. Krisnayana suffered minor burns on his back and arm in the battle.

This was his second battle.

“Last year I had the courage to participate in the tradition for the first time. This year I feel challenged to do it again,” he added.

Mesabatan Api is the unique tradition of Banjar Nagi in Gianyar regency, about 30 kilometers from Denpasar. The annual tradition takes place on Pengerupukan or the eve of Nyepi, Balinese Hinduism’s Day of Silence.

In the afternoon, all villagers, including children, were busy preparing the coconut husks for the war. When the piles of coconut husks were ready to be torched, all participants formed a circle around the piles and sang folk songs. They then sat together for a communal feast.

The village’s religious leader later led the collective prayer, asking the deities to protect the participants from any harm during battle. The participants smeared their foreheads with slaked lime paste and were sprinkled with holy water before the start of the war.

“I don’t know exactly when the tradition started. It is a heritage from our ancestors. We have always organized it year after year . We believe that the tradition must be continued,” Banjar Nagi chief I Nyoman Sudana said.

The tradition, Sudana explained, could be used by youths to settle old scores.

“Youths who have issues with each other could use the event to release their anger and emotions. Hopefully, after the war, they have already made peace and then start the following day with a clean slate,” Sudana added.

However, the war is actually considered to be a moment for exorcising the evil out of participants’ bodies.

Before dark: Balinese girls carry torches during Mesabatan Api in Banjar Nagi.“We believe that the fire can destroy evil. Thus, we face the new year as better people,” he said.

Mesabatan Api has never caused any fatalities. The event has several unwritten safety rules, including the prohibition on throwing fireballs at the neck or body of the participants.

Banjar Nagi comprises 96 households and all are allowed to participate in Mesabatan Api. However, the youngsters are usually more enthusiastic in taking part than the adults.

After one hour, when the participants were tired and the embers of the coconut husks had died out, the war reached its end.

The tradition was concluded by a peaceful bamboo torch and ogoh-ogoh (giant papier-mache dolls) parade around the village.

— Photos by JP/Agung Parameswara