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Jakarta Post

Food enthusiasts cook up spirit of nationalism in the kitchen

Food of love: Santhi Serad and William Wongso, organizers of the I Love Indonesian Food community, discuss traditional cuisine at the recent gathering in Jakarta

Tifa Asrianti (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Sat, March 30, 2013

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Food enthusiasts cook up spirit of nationalism in the kitchen

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span class="inline inline-none">Food of love: Santhi Serad and William Wongso, organizers of the I Love Indonesian Food community, discuss traditional cuisine at the recent gathering in Jakarta. (JP/ Tifa Asrianti)

The fragrant, enticing aroma of food wafted through the building. Following its trail up a flight of stairs led to a room with plates of Indonesian cuisine on its tables.

Dishes included rendang (beef cooked in coconut milk), soto ayam Lamongan (Lamongan-style aromatic chicken soup) and asem-asem bandeng (milkfish sour soup), with each dish’s cook ready to explain the ingredients and the cooking process.

The event at Jl. Melawai, South Jakarta, was a regular potluck held by I Love Indonesian Food (ACMI), a group established by culinary expert William Wongso and food enthusiast Santhi Serad.

Each community gathering has its own theme. For example, the first held in December 2012 was a celebration of tempeh the following month paid homage to 30 icons of Indonesian cuisine and ikan asin (salted fish) was the flavor of the month in February.

Announcements on the food theme, date and location are circulated on the community’s Twitter account @acmiID. Anyone can participate in the events as long as they cook the food themselves.

The potluck is not simply an opportunity for members to share food but also to receive feedback and promote their food and business.

 University student Neli Sestriani started her es cendol business, Cendol Ngiler, last year. During the January potluck gathering, she served the iced dessert drink which is made from coconut milk, palm sugar and green pieces of jelly, served with glutinous rice.

Community members showered her with praise for the sweet treat.

“The ACMI potluck event gives me a chance to meet new friends as well as to get feedback,” Neli said.

William is a restaurant owner and food consultant who is considered one of the foremost authorities on Indonesian cuisine. He said the community wants to create awareness and boost interest in Indonesian cuisine.

“We hope the community generates economic value for its members and connects members who can cook good food with people searching for delicious home-cooked Indonesian cuisine. We will put up good food recommendations on our website,” he said.

“We are also considering training people to be food guides in each city. So, if tourists want to take a culinary tour, they can get recommendations from the guides.”

He hopes the community’s activities will inspire many young chefs to focus on Indonesian cuisine.

“I hope the community helps boost a regeneration in Indonesian food experts. Many Indonesian cuisine experts do not hold degrees from a fancy culinary academy, many of them are your regular housewives who have been cooking dishes close to their hearts for years.”

ACMI member Astrid vouches for the home-style cooking knowledge to be gained in the nation’s kitchens. She went all the way to Aceh to learn about the cuisine of the nation’s westernmost province.

“It was difficult to find an expert on Aceh cuisine but I finally found a housewife who has served Aceh cuisine to state guests,” she said.

She is planning to open an Acehnese restaurant in Jakarta.

“When it comes to Sumatran cuisine, people always refer to Padang food. Many people don’t know that Aceh has delicious cuisine, too. That’s why I want to introduce authentic Aceh cuisine,” she said.

William has received requests to open chapters in Medan, West Kalimantan and Yogyakarta. It appears that during this past decade, Indonesians have not only gained knowledge of the world’s cuisines coming in to the country, but also are taking more pride in their own food.

“The culinary art has multiplier effects as it can also develop the agriculture sector. The President should bring a culinary team if he goes on a state visit. We should boost our food diplomacy,” William said.

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