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Prayer tablets and evil spirits in Tokyo

Sacred area: Worshipers and tourists cross the courtyard to the main hall of Meiji Shrine, where people pray to the souls of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken

Linda Hollands (The Jakarta Post)
Tokyo
Wed, May 8, 2013

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Prayer tablets and evil spirits in Tokyo

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span class="inline inline-none">Sacred area: Worshipers and tourists cross the courtyard to the main hall of Meiji Shrine, where people pray to the souls of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken.

Passing under a tall cypress torii gate, the hustle and bustle of Tokyo is left behind in the tranquil setting of the Meiji Shrine. With gravel crunching underfoot and birds chirping in the treetops, we follow a meandering pathway past a huge rack of sake barrels donated every year by various sake brewers to the souls of Emperor Meiji and his consort, Empress Shoken, to whom the shine is dedicated.

Worshipers use water-filled basins to cleanse themselves in a wooden ablution pavilion before passing through to the vast inner courtyard.

Inside, an old, divine tree is surrounded by a wall of prayer tablets. Strung around the tree, the prayer tablets have worshipers'€™ wishes written on the reverse side and are offered up for prayers at Mikesai, the daily morning ceremony, with priests conveying worshipers'€™ supplications to the deities.

Worshipers stand in front of the main hall praying to Empress Shoken and Emperor Meiji, who ruled Japan from 1867 to 1912 and is credited with transforming Japan from a feudal country into the modern nation it has become.

Two old trees stand to the left of the main hall, with a thick shimenawa rope strung up between them to ward off evil spirits and to identify a sacred area. Although there are many tourists among the visitors, there is a serenity that permeates the whole compound.

Bird'€™s nest: A tree-house cafe in a back alley of Harajuku shares overhead space with power lines.
Bird'€™s nest: A tree-house cafe in a back alley of Harajuku shares overhead space with power lines.Leaving Tokyo'€™s most important Shinto shrine and its 70-hectare forest, we head for Harajuku, a popular teenage hangout where young women dressed up in doll-like costumes with hair and makeup to match can been seen by the dozens. Couples line up for hours for a taste of the latest fad in food '€” pancakes.

Power lines crisscross above in the narrow alleys of Harajuku, marring the landscape. There are cafes, restaurants, hawker stalls and trendy boutiques galore in this vibrant district. Hours can be spent wandering the streets here and taking in the sights and the young people who come here to see and be seen.

Within walking distance is the Togo Shrine, which was built in honor of former fleet admiral and commander of the Imperial Japanese Navy Heihachiro. Because Togo was victorious in a number of battles, it is believed that visitors to the shrine will enjoy good fortune in their endeavors. The location is a tranquil combination of shrine, Japanese garden and winding boardwalk over a Koi-filled pond.

After this it is time for something from the modern era, and we head to the Tokyo Sky Tree, the tallest transmission tower in the world, and the second-tallest structure after the 828-meter Burj Khalifa in Dubai.

At 634 meters, it is the tallest building in Japan. The tower is a tripod at its base and at its cross-section becomes circular. During the 50-second ride up one of the four elevators, each of which is themed around the skies of one of the four seasons, the only sense of movement is felt through pressure in the ears. Alighting on the first observation deck at 350 meters, 5-meter tall windows offer a sweeping view of Tokyo. On a clear day, it is possible to see Mount Fuji 100 kilometers away. There is also a section of glass floor on this deck.

The higher deck is at 450 meters and has an all-glass tubular corridor that winds around the tower to reach the highest point at 451.2 meters.

Downstairs on the lower floors is a vast shopping area selling a broad range of souvenirs, clothes and food.

Being relatively new, with construction being completed in early 2012, the tower is still a novelty and attracts hordes of Japanese sightseers, making it a good idea to order tickets ahead of time to avoid the long queues.

Not far away is the Sensoji Temple, which has a five-story pagoda. The temple'€™s Kaminarimon Gate stands out from the main street, due to the huge red paper lantern suspended from its high roof. People come from all over to pray at the temple.

Taking the bus through Tokyo to Narita airport, another reason it is so pleasant to visit the city becomes apparent: The lack of gridlock that makes such a bad impression when visiting the majority of Asian cities. Public transportation is so efficient in Tokyo that there is no need for people to travel to work by car, or for tourists not to arm themselves with an English version of the railway system so they can go wherever they choose.

Supplications: Prayer tablets surround an ancient tree at Meiji Shrine. Priests convey worshipers'€™ supplications written on the back of the tablets to the deities.
Supplications: Prayer tablets surround an ancient tree at Meiji Shrine. Priests convey worshipers'€™ supplications written on the back of the tablets to the deities.

Barrels of spirits: Sake donated to Meiji Shrine for the souls of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken stand tall along the shrine'€™s forest path.
Barrels of spirits: Sake donated to Meiji Shrine for the souls of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken stand tall along the shrine'€™s forest path.

Sacred area: A shimenawa rope strung between two trees keeps away evil spirits and marks a sacred area.
Sacred area: A shimenawa rope strung between two trees keeps away evil spirits and marks a sacred area.

Famous canine: A bronze statue of Hachiko stands in front of Shibuya station.
Famous canine: A bronze statue of Hachiko stands in front of Shibuya station.
'€” Photos by JP/Linda Hollands

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