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here was no specific dress code on the invitation to Biyan Wanaatmadja’s recent lavish bash celebrating his 30th anniversary in fashion, but Jakarta’s sartorial who’s who knew exactly what to wear to pay tribute to the homegrown fashion genius.

As the devotees of prolific Indonesian designer attested on June 6 at the ballroom of Hotel Mulia Senayan, flower prints and accessories are always in vogue at his shows.

“I wouldn’t dare to wear anything but Biyan’s to celebrate his 30th anniversary in fashion,” said a guest, who donned a turquoise, gemstone-beaded, flower-patter ned lace top.

“Everything that has to do with flowers, leaves and plants is appropriate to use to turn up at a Biyan’s event,” said a Singaporean guest, referring to her fabulous golden leaf choker made entirely of finely cut steel.

Veteran model-cum-legislator Okky Asokawati jumped on the flower print bandwagon with her smock and eccentric boots. Elsewhere in the ballroom, a big crowd of bejeweled society ladies – and their wannabes – exchanged notes on their flower-pint cheongsam and jackets.

The 59-year-old designer, known for his sophisticated cut and artful embroidery, is perhaps the most successful
Indonesian designer to date – he is the first and only Indonesian designer whose garments are sold at such prestigious retailers as Bergdorf Goodman, Joyce (Hong Kong), Club21, Blake, Saks Fith Avenue (Dubai) and, last but not least, famous luxury online store Net-A-Porter.

Suffice to say that his illustrious career has raised the bar for local designers and speaks volumes for his creativity, even if he remains an understated, gracious presence.

He works almost exclusively with fine fabrics such as lace, tulle, fine cotton and silk chiffon. He rarely experiments with contemporary cuts – classy and classic is his look. But Biyan expresses a rich cultural vocabulary through the use of flower embroidery, beads and rhinestones in his design.

The appearance of flower accents in his design is usually coupled with a refined ethnic touch, be it on a pair of silk pants, knee-length coat or a simple top.

His collection on the night, entitled “Postcard”, was no exception. While the collection showcased a range of boxy, rectangular pieces, deliberately cut so to subvert the conventional norms of fit, the details were blooming flowers.

Admittedly, transparent lace and artfully printed silk were the materials of choice, a nod to the season-appropriate flapper girls dresses (Think Carey Mulligan in The Great Gatsby with a more refined taste).

The individual pieces, such as the skirtsuits, shirts, jackets as well as oversized coats, are reminiscent of the Prada spring 2012 and Louis Vuitton’s decadent fall 2013 collection – thanks to the bold use of flowers as both accessories and garment patterns.

Of course, that flower embroidery is Biyan’s signature.

Which is why anyone who knows Biyan understands that when it comes to his show, the unspoken dress code is definitely to say it with flowers.