A visitor examines ulos traditional Batak cloth on display at the Textile Museum in Jakarta
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Torang will present around 100 pieces of ulos at the Jakarta Textile Museum's main gallery in Central Jakarta in an ongoing exhibition, titled 'Ulos Pangait ni Holong'.
'Ulos is not merely a piece of cloth but it has deep spiritual meaning. Ulos is pangait ni holong ' a bridge that connects love,' the 35-year-old explained.
The exhibition, which will run until Jan. 30 and is open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday, except on public holidays, is Torang's fifth showcase of his ulos collection since 2007, including a showcase in Venlo, the Netherlands, in 2011. 'This one, however, is by far the most extensive exhibition I have held. It took weeks to prepare,' he said.
Ulos is a rectangular woven cloth traditionally made from cotton or ramie threads and features a rich variety of pattern and comes in many sizes. The cloth was originally made to be worn on the body and is made by Batak women.
The Batak began making ulos in the 14th century, along with the introduction of weaving tools from India.
The cloth is used in traditional Batak ceremonies, marking the stages of human life from birth to death.
Ulos has also been used as bed and table cloths as well as drapes. In his exhibition, Torang presents almost all traditional variation of ulos.
'Not all are old pieces. Some are contemporary and some are replicas,' he says.
The oldest ulos in his collection, which is also showcased in the exhibition, is an ulos harungguan that was made around 1800 in Porsea district in Toba Samosir, North Sumatra.
'I got this ulos harungguan from a village elder. It was basically used as a floor mat because he thought it was worthless although the cloth had been passed down over three generations. It was given to me after I asked for it,' Torang said.
Ulos harungguan features almost all ikat motifs within the Batak weaving tradition. Ikat is a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye, which is done by binding threads according to desired patterns before dying.
'You can find almost every ikat motif on this single piece of cloth. It is definitely a priceless treasure,' he said.
The ulos harungguan was made by a mother for a newborn child in the hope that his life could be fulfilled and that he would grow into a wealthy man.
Torang's interest in ulos and other Indonesian traditional cloth started at a young age. He was born the youngest of six in a Batak family in Tarutung district in North Sumatra and grew up in the provincial capital of Medan.
'My grandmother and mother love ulos and cloth. They have collected ulos throughout their lives,' he said.
Torang inherited his ulos collection from his grandmother and mother.
Torang said his mother would often travel around villages in North Sumatra and would bring various ulos back with her. 'My mother noticed my attraction to the cloth, so she often brought me pieces from her travels,' he said.
When he was in high school, Torang begun collecting his own pieces. After high school he studied interior design for a while and also textile making in Yogyakarta.
'During my 20s, I began to delve into the traditional cloth deeply. I did it on the side of working at my family's business,' he said.
When he was 30, Torang decided to dedicate all his time to the traditional cloth. 'I was met with pessimism from my family. But I managed to convince them ' and ultimately myself,' he said.
Over the past five years, he has searched all over Tanah Batak in search of rare and nearly extinct ulos.
He has opened a workshop in Medan where he worked with Batak weavers to replicate rare ulos and teach the younger generation to continue the ancestors' skill of weaving.
Through cooperation with other traditional cloth experts and lovers, he opened a mini museum in Tarutung and Palembang, South Sumatra, through the Sumatra Loom Foundation.
'I plan to open another mini museum in Medan and hopefully I can publish a book about ulos before the end of the year,' he said.
' Photos by JP/Wendra Ajistyatama
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