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Retracing Didi Budiardjo'€™s fashion journey

Original:  All the pieces in Pilgrimage are authentic originals, although several items have undergone minor fixes, such as button repairs

Novia D. Rulistia (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Sat, January 17, 2015

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Retracing Didi Budiardjo'€™s fashion journey

O

span class="inline inline-center">Original:  All the pieces in Pilgrimage are authentic originals, although several items have undergone minor fixes, such as button repairs.

The journey of designer Didi Budiardjo was presented at a fashion exhibition titled '€œPilgrimage'€, which celebrates his 25 years in Indonesia'€™s fashion industry.

The exhibition, which follows the Curiosity Cabinet fashion show, is the second part of a trilogy to celebrate the anniversary and showcase his creative explorations in fashion.

'€œTwenty five years is a long time, yet feels so short. This journey is the process where I discover who I really am,'€ Didi said.

Born in Malang, East Java, on Nov. 22, 1970, Didi has shown an interest in art since early age. His passion for women'€™s wear was inspired by women around him, especially his mother. He enrolled in Susan Budihardjo'€™s School of Fashion in Jakarta in 1988 and continued his studies at the Atelier Fleuri Delaporte in Paris, France, in 1991.

He launched a ready-to-wear line upon his return from Paris and changed tack, becoming a bespoke designer exclusively known for evening dresses and bridal fashions.

In the exhibition, a total of 300 items, including about 70 of his designs, will be on display at the Textile Museum in Tanah Abang, Central Jakarta, until Jan. 25.

'€œWhen making clothes, I become a mother and my creations are my daughters; my oldest daughter was born in 1989 and the youngest one was born in October 2014,'€ Didi said.

Didi said all the pieces in Pilgrimage were authentic originals, although several originals had undergone minor fixes, such as button repairs.

He also borrowed dresses from some of his customers for the exhibition.

'€œI'€™m very lucky because when I told them that I wanted to borrow the clothes for the exhibition, they still had them and happily lent me some,'€ Didi said.

The collections are displayed in 14 different rooms '€” attractively laid out by art director Felix Tjahjadi '€” divided based on the color and the type of the clothes.

Upon entering the museum, visitors will come into The Atelier section that features sketches, images, piles of books and other things that have inspired and helped Didi to make clothes.

Moving there'€™s the Reflection Room, which displays some of Didi'€™s first designs, including a blue outerwear piece made of double organza, stretch lamé from the 1991 Edge collection, and a yellow long-sleeve blazer that was taken from Past + Present = Future collection in 1992.

His teenage pictures, certificates and trophies received during fashion design contests are also showcased in this room.

Didi showcases his white gowns in the White Forest room.

A tulle-made dress with glass beads fringes from his 201 Claire de Lune collection, a flowing long dress from his 2007 ajasthan collection and a bodycon dress made of silk shantung and guipure lace from 2009 are among his best works showcased here.

A contrast immediately occurs when Didi'€™s black creations dominate the next room.

A set of dresses that come from his 1990 Anonymous collection feature a simple raw-silk long dress, ostrich feathers cloak from 2007 and a heavy ruffle top from his 2000 Svarnadvipa collection in the Moonless room.

Pilgrimage also showcases Didi'€™s exploration with Indonesian fabrics.

He paired silk chiffons and Thai silk dresses with Sumbanese woven fabrics taken from his 2003 and 2005 collections, he combined Tibetan jacquard with cotton Mega Mendung batik in one dress and also designed colorful outfits made from East Nusa Tenggara tenun taken from the 2008 Kelapa Apo Kayon collection.

The exhibition also displays the kebaya that was worn by Veronica Tan during the inauguration of her husband, Jakarta Governor Basuki '€œAhok'€ Tjahaja Purnama, at the State Palace in November, alongside the newspapers that featured her in the dress.

Didi'€™s exploration with feathers, beads, sequins and '€œOriental'€ touches in his designs are also showcased.

Pilgrimage also displays several works of noted designers who have inspired Didi'€™s life, including a Pieter Sie collage that he got from an auction, pieces from Iwan Tirta'€™s batik collection and works from Susan Budihardjo and Sebastian Gunawan.

'€” Photos by JP/DON

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