Chasing the sunset: Horse riding on Nihiwatu beach.

The sound of waves was still fresh in my mind weeks after I left Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara, after a three-night stay at a resort there and returned to the hustle and bustle of Jakarta.

The trip to Sumba turned out to be not only a chance to enjoy the luxurious Nihiwatu resort, but also a privilege to admire the beauty of a vast savanna, amazing waves, a bluish waterfall and well-preserved megaliths.

We departed from Jakarta on an early flight and transited at Ngurah Rai International Airport in Bali where we were greeted by representatives of the Nihiwatu resort.

The stifling hot air at Tambolaka airport was the first thing that welcomed us in the afternoon. It was such a relief to receive a cold towel and fresh coconut water from the resort'€™s staff before continuing our trip to the resort, which was a drive of less than two hours.

As our car turned the last bend on the winding road, we saw the bright blue ocean that encouraged us to get closer as soon as possible. We arrived at the resort at lunch time.

Nihiwatu, which saw a soft launch in August after some renovations last year, features a strong ambiance of African and Sumbanese exoticism in its luxurious villas.

Nestled along the beachfront, each villa is shaped like an ethnic Sumbanese house with alang-alang grass on the roof and tribal carvings on big wooden pillars.

I was housed in a spacious villa that offered a quiet and serene atmosphere and allowed me to enjoy beach views across a small private swimming pool.

Another great feature that certainly served the needs of those who could not be apart from their gadgets was strong Wi-Fi.

On the first day, we patiently waited for a chance to snap sunset pictures at a place called the Boathouse '€” a bar and an outpost for beach adventures such as surfing, diving and snorkeling.

I sipped a cocktail while watching several surfers walk back to the Boathouse with happy faces.

James McBride, a shareholder of Nihiwatu, said he wanted to keep the pristine waves in the resort area away from the overload of surfers.  

'€œSurfing has become very popular and the waves have become very overcrowded in Bali and a lot of places. So, for someone to be able to surf on the one of the best left-hand waves in the world and only have 10 people on the waves because you have to book your surf slot ['€¦] is ultimate,'€ he said.

When sunset got closer, everybody around the Boathouse sat comfortably on their beach chairs, at the bar or on bales.

The sunset was only the beginning. We later explored the island using an open-air land rover safari vehicle to reach Lapopu waterfall and a shorter trip to reach Nihi Oka valley.

Nihi Oka valley was actually within walking distance, a healthy two-hour trek that would give you a closer look at the surroundings or allow you to bump into a family of pigs.

We also passed a large cashew plantation that made me wonder whether the delicious commodity was available for purchase. It was not.

Dessy Lombo, one of our butlers, said the island could only produce unprocessed cashew nuts, which were sold at Rp 12,000 (90 US cents) per kilogram in Waikabubak, a nearby town. The ready-to-cook or eat ones are from Bali.  

From above: A view from the tree house in Nihi Oka valley

Nihi Oka valley looked surreal to me. It boasted hilly rice terraces with a group of buffaloes walking lazily against a contrasting backdrop of sparkling sea and clean blue sky.  

After we reached the top of the valley on foot, we had breakfast in a tree house that was decorated with young coconut leaves and red hibiscus flowers.

Later that day, we joined a massage session in a nearby open-air hut placed overlooking the private beach. The serenity of the place and piles of cushions all around were so inviting for a nap.

We also found the same serenity in the nearby Weihola kampung where life and the megalithic cultures were inseparable, as proven in the presence of iconic traditional houses that were built next to a group of megalithic stone tombs.

Villagers came out of their houses to display handicrafts and colorful handwoven ikat cloth once they saw us coming. They uttered no marketing words but friendly smiles. They would only approach when we seemed interested in particular ikat from their families.

A respected elder in the village, Ngailu Halang, 76, allowed us to go inside his traditional Sumba house, which was built hand in hand with other villagers.

Inside, he shared stories, including the one about the famous Pasola festival where horsemen from villages engage each other in a battle using spears that could possibly cost a life.  

During the brief chat, we also learned that life for Sumbanese was tough when it came to water and energy.

'€œWe have no electricity here, but we have a so-called sehen [solar panel] lamp from [state power company] PLN. We also have to go around 1 kilometer to reach a clean water source,'€ he said.

While it is common to hear about water scarcity in East Nusa Tenggara, the issue became real after we visited Sumba.

Nihi Oka valley

One person who knows well about the hard lives of Sumbanese may be Alexandra Wyllie, an activist of The Sumba Foundation, a non-profit organization run by the resort since 2001.

Wyllie said the resort had a number of programs to lessen the impact of poverty on the island, including the construction of wells and water stations to provide clean water, malaria control, education and malnutrition treatment.  

The foundation also welcomes guests who want to share their skills with locals. '€œOnce, a surgeon shared his stitching skills with the staff members of our health center,'€ she said.  

McBride said it was easy to generate social contributions from his guests for the community. The resort management also tries to bring guests closer to life in Sumba by regularly screening a documentary film on the people of Sumba every Friday evening.

I may not have had a chance to watch the film, but the experiences during my stay in Sumba and the memory of the smiling residents remain vivid to date. The island is indeed unforgettable.

Local feel: Weihola traditional kampung boasts authentic Sumbanese traditional houses.

 '€” Photos by Indah Setiawati
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TIPS

- Bring sunglasses, a hat and sunscreen.
- Regularly apply mosquito repellent when you go outdoors to protect against malaria.   
- It is better to take an early flight from Jakarta to Bali, so you can arrive at the resort by lunchtime. Garuda  
  Indonesia and Wings Air are among domestic airlines that frequently fly to Tambolaka in Sumba.
- Plan your activities '€” be it yoga, massage, horse riding, water activities or a trek to the waterfalls '€” during
  your stay at Nihiwatu to make the most of your time.
- Nihiwatu suggests that guests refrain from offering gratuities to villagers during their stay. For more
  information about making donations, please visit nysumbafoundation.org.