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Savor: Culinary acculturation
âTasty local dishes in AmlapuraâWords and photos Luh De SuriyaniTraditional Balinese dishes come in all flavors and levels of spiciness
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'Tasty local dishes in Amlapura'
Words and photos Luh De Suriyani
Traditional Balinese dishes come in all flavors and levels of spiciness. Nasi sambal pelalah, steamed rice served with compressed fried chicken, hot chili sauce and mixed steamed vegetables with grated coconut dressing, locally known as urab or sayur olah, is a tasty treat that will perk up your taste buds if you are visiting Amlapura, a town around 60 kilometers east of Denpasar.
Depot Prima Dewi is one of the local food stalls that offers this traditional dish; located in Banjar Batanha, it is close to the bus terminal.
Dozens of people were seen sitting at the food stall one lunchtime, while Kadek Yanti, a daughter-in-law of the original owner, Ni Nengah Wenten, was busy serving loyal customers.
A serving of nasi sambel pelalah costs between Rp 10,000 and Rp 15,000 (73 US cents to $1.10), depending on the size of the portion.
'Ayam pelalah and sayur olah were popular dishes in the past. But people here still like them very much,' Yanti said.
Pelalah, also known as plecing, is also popular in the neighboring island of Lombok, which has historically had very close relations with Bali. Acculturation has moved in both directions, with many east Balinese migrating to Lombok, while the people of West Lombok, especially the Muslim community in Amlapura, moved to Bali. Indigenous arts and cultures, such as wood carvings, textiles, architecture and recipes, moved with the people.
The ingredients for pelalah vary from area to area, but all include the ubiquitous yellow spice mixture known as bumbu megenep, which contains turmeric, ginger, shrimp paste, lemongrass, shallots and coriander.
'We also have another specialty ' tipat belayag ' rice steamed wrapped in young coconut leaves served with ayam pelalah. But we add a little bit of sugar to enrich the savory flavor,' she said. Some customers also like crispy chicken skin or sweet and spicy potato chips as side dishes.
Nasi ayam sambal pelalah and tipat belayag are just two of the many traditional dishes that blend the flavors of east Bali and Lombok.
